European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - September 02, 1995, Darmstadt, Hesse                                U i 1 \ i h a i i i ,. 4 x1-. 4 5 nearly anything goes when it comes to Barbecue favorite Nyji Auchmutey Cox news service Hou Shalt not Par boil. Thou shall not bake. " thou Shalt not sauce until the last minutes of i cooking or verily it will taste like Brimstone. I the Way Barbecue purists talk about ribs you d think Moses received the original j recipe on tablets at mount Sinai. While these l t rules and others Are repeated for Good l reasons Cooks have broken them countless times with rib Licious results. When outdoor Cooks fire up their grills this labor Day weekend Many will be sticking to ribs to assure a successful meal. And you can bet that they la wilfully violate the rules if they know some secret that works. Take the third Rule not brushing on sauce Loo Early. It does make sense most Barbecue sauces contain tomatoes and will Char under prolonged heat. Yet dreamland a Tuscaloosa ala., joint that serves some of the South s Best ribs flagrantly violates this commandment by applying sauce Halfway through cooking. The folks at dreamland get away with it because they flout another Rule. Instead of smoking ribs slowly for four or More hours Barbe curs do it slowly a bumper sticker says they essentially Grill them in an hour or less Over the smoke of a hotter fire. People can t believe we Cook them that fast so we let them stand there and watch says manager Jeannette bib hop Hall. Some people think we Par boil them but we d never do  a yes the Par boiling Law. Most pit masters regard Par boiling As a form of Barbecue forgery. They say it removes fat and flavor leaving the meat soft and unprepared for the rigor of a Long sweat Over  boiling is for the Birds decrees Robin Kline consumer affairs director for the National pork producers Council in Iowa. People up Here have this strange notion that you have to boil the fat away As if the heat won t do it. Most people know better Down  not everyone. Even in Georgia in the belly of the Barbecue Belt plenty of Cooks and restaurants Par boil. They see it As a shortcut to fall off the Bonc ribs that would otherwise take hours of smoking to get so tender. Fall off the Bone that s another fallacy. You Don t want ribs that tender says Don Gillis an experienced Cook off judge who edits the National Barbecue news in Douglas a. What you really want is tender Moat that you have to gnaw a Little to get off the Bone without a struggle. Judges look for that and a Good smoke  a smoke ring is not party jewelry. It s the outer layer of Moat less than an Inch deep that turns Pink from extended smoke penetration. True Cue fans regard it As a sort of Good housekeeping Seal of approval. Yet Many people mistake a smoke ring for raw meat. At daddy do a rib Shack in Atlanta they be gone so far As to put up a sign telling patrons that Pink Means it s done not underdone. To owner Ron Newman a Barbecue fundamentalist a rib without a smoke ring might As Well be a crib Sandwich. Newman grew up on the Southside of Chicago where expatriate southerners perfected the institution of the rib Shack during the 1940s and 50s. As a boy he smoked by the pros a plate of ribs brisket and the trimmings from the Salt lick in Driftwood Texas Hung out at Lem s and Leon s and Otic a joints listening to the old men talk about Barbecue and blues. Coming from Chicago he says i know there s a right Way to do ribs and a wrong  the right Way As he sees it spareribs Are patted with a dry rub of seasonings smoked 4vz to six hours Over a mixture of Hickory and Oak spritz cd every now and then with pineapple juice and Texas Pete hot sauce taken off the pit and slathered with sauce. You gotta sauce it Newman says. I be never eaten a dry rib that was any  that declaration would no doubt get a Rise out of Many people in Memphis where a whole school of barbecues maintains that the Best rib is an a sauced rib treated Only with a rub. At least Mem hians eat pork ribs. To Many texans the Only barbecued ribs Worth eating come from cattle. At the rib ranch a Texas style Barbecue restaurant in Atlanta they serve a monstrous beef rib that s a foot Long and 4 inches thick. Not we Call them our Jurassic Park ribs ays owner Frank Bonk. They take 14 hours to Cook. We put them in an automatic rotisserie smoker every night and they re ready when we come in the next  he pauses to reconsider. Why Don t you just say we have two old men who stay up All night to Stoke the fire sounds More  now that s a Barbecue Rule everyone can agree on when someone asks How you Cook your ribs Don t be afraid to fib. To cooking and eating ribs file sticking to ribs at left clockwise from top a Choice of pork ribs spareribs Back and country style at right from left beef Back rib Sparer in country style a breast of Lamb rib and baby Back. Well sauced pork ribs Are tested for oneness As they Cook Over slow coals on a Grill. Is file he Best sauce and technique won t make much difference if the meat in t Good. Knowledgeable barbecues buy "31/2 Down cuts of ribs meaning a slab that weighs less than 3v? pounds. V you Don t want a 5-Pound slab says Barbecue master Tim Patridge food and beverage manager for the cultural olympiad in Atlanta. You want a Young pig with lots of fat not some Tough old  following Are some tips for the Best ribs. Picking pm. There Are three Basic pork rib cuts spareribs America s favorite rib found at most. Cookouts and rib shacks. An elongated slab Cut from just behind the pork shoulder. Loin or baby Back ribs Shorter than spareribs generally meatier and More expensive. Favored at Many. Chain restaurants. Country style ribs the shoulder end of a Bone in. Loin. Leaner than other ribs and therefore More Likely to j dry out and toughen. Cooking pm. The Best barbecues slice and Peel off the membrane on the Bottom of each Bone. Many. Marinate ribs overnight or Pat a dry rub of seasonings on them v. Here Are three common ways of cooking ribs on the Grill. Never Cook ribs directly Over coals use indirect heat. In a covered Grill arrange medium hot coals around a drip pan. Center meat Over the pan and lower the Hood. After ribs have been grilling about 1 hour Brush on Barbecue sauce. Grill about 15 or 30 minutes longer Basting occasionally with the sauce until ribs Are nicely browned and juices run Clear when meat is Cut into. In the water smoker. A three level water smoker fire on the Bottom water pan in the Middle cooking rack on the top is probably the easiest Way to get real pit flavor at Home. After sprinkling with rub place ribs Bone Side Down on top rack close dome and leave the thing alone. Keep Middle tray filled with water. Keep fire stoked so temperature gauge remains in the Low Ideal Range a Little Over 200 degrees. Brush with finishing sauce after 3/2 hours. Ribs should be ready after 4 to 4 i hours. In the oven. Place ribs Bone Side Down in a single layer in a shallow roasting pan. Apply Jub if using bake in a 350-degree oven for 1 hour Drain off fat. Cover ribs with Barbecue sauce bake 30 to 60 minutes longer or until Well done. ". V eating pm. There s no Way to eat ribs without feeling like you need a Shower. Here Are two strategies / the proper Way says Anne Oliver of l Ecol cles exec tips a Georgia etiquette school is to Cut a single rib slice off As much meat As you can then go for it. Fingers and  you get meat caught in your Teeth excuse yourself and find a toothpick. It s never polite to pick your Teeth with your fingers or wiggle your Tongue around your  dreamland an Alabama rib joint begs . It Sells. A to shirt that lists 10 guidelines for effective eating. Among them Wear sauce on your shirt proudly. And Don t pick your Teeth until the next Day. Cox news service i m a fifth grader and i be heard my parents say i m about to go into adolescence. What s that Many rapid changes Are just around the Corner for you. The frightening thing for some kids is that they occur very suddenly almost overnight. The pituitary gland quickly begins kicking everything into action. It barks its orders right and left and your entire body seems to race around inside trying to carry out these commands. Everything is affected even your voice will be different. I m sure you be noticed How much lower your dad s voice is than your own. Have you Ever wondered How it got that Way was it always deep and Gruff did it always sound like a foghorn of course not. He was t born that Way. His voice changed during puberty and that s what will happen to yours too. However an adolescent boy s voice is sometimes an embarrassment to him until this deepening process is finished because it does t sound very solid. It squeaks and screeches and wobbles and cracks for a few months. But again this is nothing to worry about because the voice will soon be deep and steady. A Little time is needed to Complete this development of the vocal cords. Another physical problem occurring with boys and girls during puberty is fatigue or Lack hmm Mhz of Energy. Your body will be investing so Many of its resources into the growing process that it will seem to Lack Energy for other activities for a period of time. This phase usually does t last very Long. However this tired feeling is something you ought to anticipate. In fact it should influence your behaviour in two ways. First you must get plenty of sleep and rest during the period of rapid growth. That Ned is often not met however because teen agers feel that they should not have to go to bed As Early As they did when they were children. Therefore they stay up too late and then drag through the next Day in a state of exhaustion. Believe it or not a 12 or 13-year-old person actually needs More rest than when he was 9 or10, simply because of the acceleration of growth. Second the foods you eat will also be very important during adolescence. Your body has to have the raw materials with which to construct those hew muscle cells and Bones and fibres that Are in the plans. It will be necessary for you to get a balanced diet during this time it s even More important than when you were 6 or 8. If you Don t eat right during this growth period you will pay the Price with sickness and various physical problems. Your body must have the vitamins and minerals and protein necessary to enlarge itself in so Many ways a i am 131/2, and i Haven t started to change yet. I m Shorter and not As Strong As most of my friends. It s really embarrassing for me is there anything wrong with me v _ no there is nothing wrong with you. You Are just progressing on your own timetable. It s just As healthy to grow up later As earlier and there s no reason to fear the you will never mature. Just hold steady for a year or two and then the fireworks will All begin to pop just As for everybody else. I can Promise you that this is going to happen. If you Don t believe me take a 6ok at All the adults around you. Do you see any of them that look like children everyone grows up sooner or later. Certainly it s never much fun to be laughed at by your friends but if you know you la be different for Only a Short time maybe you can stand it. Most importantly Don t you be guilty of making another person feel bad about himself if you happen to grow up before he does. Or. James a Dobson is president of focus in the Fammy an organization dedicated to preserving the Home. Correspondence should to sent to him at focus on the family. . Box 444, Colorado Springs Colo 80903. 16 the stars and stripes saturday september 2, 1995 the stars and stripes 17