European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - December 19, 1985, Darmstadt, Hesse Food Spring Erle Christmas cookie tradition by Sharon Hudgins special to stripes Magazine when i 1j \ ears of a a Omle Omin gave me an unusual Gilt a Small wooden rolling pin with Flo or and designs cared into it. She Iko int ill ref .1 ref ipe describing How to make German Roku a stamped with the homers on the rolling pin. Surely i was the Only person in our Texas town who owned Sut h an exotic c ook Irig utensil. I Ould hardly wait to make a Batch of sprint Firle cookies with my new rolling pin. But the results were not what i had envisioned. The designs on the White cookies were Beautiful to look it hut the cookies were so hard arid dry it was almost impossible to bite into them ind the taste could t compare with the other More flavorful cookies that my family always baked at Christmas time. So my springcilc1 tolling pin became a decoration sitting on shelves in various kitchens for years. Only alter i moved to Germany Dill 1 conic to appreciate fully the texture and flavor and the symbolism of the Spring rec cookies that Are such an important part of Christmas culinary traditions especially in the regions of Bavaria and Schwabik. Spring rec Are naturally White Anise Flavoured cookies usually rectangular or circular which have a picture or design stamped on them. The stiff dough is first rolled out with a Standard rolling pin and the images Are imprinted in the dough by Means of a specially carved rolling pin or carved Flat holds. The dough is then Cut into individual cookies each with a separate Motif on if. After the cookies Are baked the designs arc sometimes enhanced by being painted with edible food colors if the Spring rec Are to be eaten or with tempera or acrylic paints if the cookies Are to be used solely As decorations. Historians Trace the origin of Spring Crk cookies Back to the jul fest the midwinter Celebration of Pagan germanic tribes Ulfat ceremonies included the sacrificing of animals to the gods in Hope that such offerings would bring a mild Winter and an Early Spring. Poor people however could not afford to kill any of their animals so they gave Token sacrifices in the form of animal shaped breads and cookies. Vestiges of these Pagan practices survive in the baking of shaped and stamped Christmas cookies such As Lebkuchen Saccu Ontius Frankfurter Prenton and of course Spring rec. Since the term Spring Erle translates As jumper or Springer some historians claim that the name of these cookies refers to the sacred leaping horse which belonged to Wotan King of the Pagan nordic gods. And even in More recent Christian times one of the most popular forms of Springette cookies has been the Reinersmann a Man Riding a horse others claim that Spring Erle derives from the fact that the cookie dough rises or Springs up to half again its height during baking. These cookies Are also known by such names As Sprengert tier Zucker egg sugar and Anis Quevli depending on the Region you happen to be in. Although Schwabik is recognized As the original Home of Spring Erle you la find the same cookies in Alsace Lorraine and throughout Bavaria from the Alps to Nurnberg. In Schwabik however the baking of Spring Cree cookies is a special Art. In Many households Springer i recipes and the decorated Spring Erle holds Are family treasures handed Down from generation to generation. It is also traditional for groups of sch Wabian women to gather for a Spring Cree Bic Sabend baking evening at the beginning of Advent where they share the labor of weighing beating rolling stamping and cutting the ingredients for huge batches of Spring Erle cookies. Some Bakers still perform these tasks with reverence reflecting the mystical religious significance that was attached o Spring rec in former times. The Spring rec holds used for imprinting the cookies Are often works of Art in themselves. The earliest surviving ones Date from the 16th Century. Rectangular or circular these Flat holds with intricate designs carved in them were usually made of fruit Wood particularly Apple or Pear Wood. But Spring Cree holds have also been made out of such materials As soft Wood Clay Pewter plaster Wax and even thick pieces of leather. In medieval times Formen Stecher Carvers of Spring rec holds had their own craftsmen s Guild. Even Zuckor Bicker Bakers of egg sugar cookies such As Spring Cree were often required to pass examinations on cookie Mold carving before they were allowed to practice their Trade. The designs carved into Early Spring Cree holds reflected the religious significance of these cookies the holy family the baby Jesus the Christmas creche Angels stars the symbolic crusader Lamb with Banner and Cross. There were also animal figures reminiscent of the Pagan origins of Spring Erle rabbits sheep Deer pigs Etc. Secular motifs gradually came o be accepted too such As Story tale characters ladies in fancy dresses soldiers in full uniform astride prancing horses and even the Coats of arms of Noble families. The stamped design often formed the whole cookie instead of being Only in the Center of it. The a Violos l. Emmell Lewi or. Cookie was then Cut in the shape of the Man woman musician Knight on horseback Etc., that had been stamped by the Mold and the details of the design were intricately painted. Today s Spring Erle holds replicate Many of these older designs along with such motifs As Birds butterflies fish dogs cats hearts Flowers fruits snowflakes Bells. Father Christmas and Evergreen Trees. Interesting collections of historical Spring Erle holds can be seen at the germanic National museum in Nurnberg the bavarian National museum in Munich the Wurt Temberg Landes museum in Stuttgart the muscle a Lacienne in Strasbourg and the Musee d Unte Linden in Colmar. Many local museums in Northern Europe also exhibit old Spring rec holds made and used by artisans in those regions. Spring rec recipes have remained essentially the same for centuries. Most Call for the use of 4 eggs 500 Grams of sugar 500 Grams of flour a Leavening agent formerly Hartshorn Salt now baking powder and the traditional flavourings of grated Lemon Peel and crushed Anise seeds. A few Spring Erle recipes omit the eggs and substitute or water for the liquid in the dough and some Odd Vanilla or kor so Nasser for Flavouring. Most require that you beat the whole eggs and sugar together for As Long As 30 minute but in some recipes the egg Whites and Yolks Are beaten separately. It is always suggested that Spring Erle be made on a dry Day because High humidity will prevent the cookies from drying properly. After the dough has been rolled stamped with designs and Cut into individual cookies the Spring rec Are left to dry overnight in the Kitchen and then Are baked Only until they have puffed up but Are not browned on top. The hard dry cookies Are left in the open air for a few Days to soften or Are put into a Container with a piece of bread or half an Apple from which the cookies absorb a bit of moisture. Some recipes claim that Spring Erle stripes Magazine december 19, ims
