European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - March 13, 1986, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Going to visit Story and photos by Tony Nauroth staff writer the tiny Village of duende Oclos Spain has nine fewer residents than it did in 1746 when Spanish Painter Francisco de Goya was born there. It s a desolate place where whole blocks have been abandoned to dust and dogs beasts in the streets. Except for the Parish Church standing like a Beacon above the Rock Homes that dissolve into the Rocky Hillside Goya s Hometown is designed from a landscaper s Nightmare. In Goya s time Sarragossa now known As Zaragoza where a . Air Force training Wing is located was a regional Center of Art and Commerce. But fund Todos 30 Miles South is still much like it was 230 years ago. The sheep with their Bells chiming in the rocks bleat and move in one Large Dustall As the last rays of the eerie Spanish Sun paint Silver linings on their Wool. It s the same Sun and same gnarl treed background Goya used in his paintings. Even the population 109 in 1746, 100 today remains constant. Nothing has changed except for the strains of the a team theme song blaring from the town s color to in the bar attached to the Goya Home. The bar is crowded. Men women and children Perch on straight backed furniture of dark Wood or lounge against the Walls. From a loft teen agers gather at the rail Many in easy embraces. Beer and snacks Are passed through the crowd and laughter Crooms through the leather thong doorway to Bounce off the Walls of the Goya courtyard where Young men discuss politics while leaning against the stones. It s tuesday night. The a team begins and through the typical episode punctuated with explosions spectacular military vehicle crashes and incomprehensible behaviour of the cast the scene takes on a bizarre face that Goya could have painted to perfection. A hand scrawled sign fastened to a wrought Iron door Grill Points the Way to the courtyard at a narrow a shaped intersection. The right Fork takes the visitor into a four car parking lot under the Iron bust of the Spanish master that faces his Home. An old Man sleeps on a Cane Back chair just inside the Home turned museum s door. It s dark. When he notices the visitor he rises gives a Welcome and turns on the lights in the display cases. The tour is Short. The displays consist of the relics of Normal living in the 18th Century. Goya s own bed and Nightshirt supposedly authentic dishes the blackened Hearth in the whitewashed Wall and other trinkets fill the rooms. Conspicuously missing is any of Goya s work. Not one sketch or pot can be found. This the guide explains is a Monument to his life not his Art. A plaque on the exterior Wall pays homage to Goya. He would have liked that. In his time spaniards held Strong Bonds with family Church and Community. National Bonds were weak even jeered at by the people. Goya did his jeering with paint. One of his most famous portraits was of Spanish King Charles in and his family commissioned by the King himself in 1800 while the Painter was serving As first Painter to the King. The contrast Between the glittering Royal costumes with their showy trappings and the Lack of character in their faces led French novelist Theophile Gautier to remark they look like the Corner Baker and his wife after they have won the  and Ernest Hemingway who after standing before the huge painting now displayed in Madrid s Prado museum observed is it not a masterpiece of loathing look How he has painted his spittle into every face. Can you imagine that he had such Genius that he could please the King who could not see How Goya had stamped him for All the world to see his portraits Are famous for their truth. His landscapes Are desolate Hells and yet the Good and innocent Shine like Angels. He Vyas especially fond of painting children. His work was kind to them. And his notorious paintings of the naked Maja now recognized As one of the most Beautiful paintings of a woman Ever produced raised Spanish eyebrows and brought him before the inquisition. Spanish nudes at this time were unheard of. His exalted position and friends in High places saved him from the religious court s Wrath. Goya s later years brought out the monsters. Canvases peopled with beasts never seen on Earth or perhaps even in hell Are almost unbearable to look at. One Canvas shows the jealous god Neptune devouring one of his offspring after a Prophet said a son would overthrow the father. In the roman myth Only Saturn protected by his Mother escaped cannibalization. Almost nothing is known of Goya s Early life. Spanish history is a living history and not much care was taken to preserve records Back then. Only a simple notation in the fund Todos Parish Church records the birth of the artist on March 30, 1746. Although it might seem strange to hear the a team blare from the gnarled rocks of fund Todos to mix with the chiming of the sheep herds in the nearby Hills it pales in comparison to the mixing of Goya s midlife vision of Beauty with shadows of death in the beasts of his old age. If you re planning to visit the area first take a look at the Goya exhibition in Madrid s Prado. It s on the second floor in the Central Hall. Then go to fund Todos on tuesday walk the streets with the dogs and the rocks with the sheep. Stop at the Goya Casa House and Cap it off with Beer snacks and the a team in the bar next door. Goya roots Goya s tie naked a a caused a juror. Shepherds on surrounding Hills top photo watch their flocks. Two centuries ago Goya captured them with his painting. Dusk settles Over the Village of fund Todos. The House where Goya was born top photo is faced by an Iron bust of the Painter. The Hearth of the Goya Home. Only mementos Are displayed in the House. Stripes Magazine March 13,1986 March 13,1986 stripes Magazine ii