European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - March 29, 1986, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Eakins a hands by Melissa Sones United press International if the 1970s focused on the upper body the1980s Are shaping up As the decade of  the fall ready to Wear collections take shape it is Clear that clothes for fall will be snug. Despite the talk about new uses of roomier pieces especially Bell shaped jackets and big Coats these clothes Are not for the faint of body. The Belt which accompanies dresses jackets body stockings and trousers is the key accessory. After Black the color the press and buyers Are wearing and Brown the new popular color is Green although japanese designer Kenzo who focused on the american West used Brights and Thierry Mugler pastels. Skinny knits Are news too from classic Turtleneck evening gowns at Chloe to minis worn with tights for a 60s look. Bernard Perris paired minis with White tights and above the knee socks Over that. Elsewhere skirts Are surprisingly Long. The newest ones Are trumpet skirts or ones that at least have some flare at the hem while fitted in the rear. The asymmetrical hem while hardly the Rule showed up at More than the japanese designers and a number attached them to the backs of Long dresses or even suits. The ruffle especially on the derriere has arrived. The big jacket is the flared peplum with variations below the cinched Waist. Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto had flaps reminiscent of a carwash. The coat of the season is the shaped and flared Redin Gote. Kawakubo did them and so did Lagerfeld. No matter the oddball detail the shape is fitted even at commes Des Garcons the japanese company run by cerebral designer Rei Kawakubo who in years past was known for depressing and oversized clothes. And the Way the japanese were the hot tickets several years ago and Saint Laurent before that the hot tickets now Are the Avant Garde designers who May or May not have the staying Power of Saint Laurent. The big three Are Jean Paul Gaultier Thierry Mugler and Claude Montana. Both Gaultier and Mugler went with a russian theme. Gaultier whose show was off the beaten track a half hour subway ride from the courtyard of the louvre where the shows Are held in tents wrote his name in cyrillic characters on the sleeves of jackets. Despite the militaristic looks at Mugler including Epa lets and soviet music the belted pantsuits with exaggerated shoulders going up like triangles looked More like Star trek couture. As Marvin Traub chairman of Bloomingdale a remarked on the Way out of the Mugler show it was a Superb presentation and in Many ways presentation is j what the collections Are about. Buyers and the press for that matter can see the lines in designers showrooms sometimes in Advance of a show but they can t see the Broadway extravaganzas the dogsled and huskies at Mugler for instance. And not everything on the runway makes it into the stores. As one buyer noted after Mugler you have to strip it  she was referring to the icicles on the suedes. This season the bulk of the applause was not for the show stoppers but for the wearable items especially with talk of the weakening Dollar continuing on from Milan. Even to the japanese like Kenzo it was the Jersey skirts tops and cardigans that could easily go from office to cocktails. And at commes Des Garcons audiences clapped for the fitted clothes that could do the same. Azzedine Alaia who started tight several years ago and who does t have a formal show and sees press and buyers by appointment Only is still a Star and great influence on the season. There has also been interest in a relative unknown Adeline Andre who showed her line so late at night that too Many people missed it. Wearable fashions Model presents a crushed of taffeta hip wrap below left with Matching double Pouf sleeves in a fall cocktail dress with velvet bodice and print skirt from ready to Wear collection of designer Angela Tarlazzi classic Dogtooth tailor Center by Guy Laroche from Lanvin right a plaid two piece costume with High shouldered jacket and Black front linings and an Over the knee Long straight skirt worn Over a Black lining with Black Turtleneck sweater and Beret. A photos Page 16 the stars and stripes saturday March 29, 1986