European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - April 4, 1986, Darmstadt, Hesse                                A i to Magazine / s 1 ova a s1 v v$�r1 3-bjl&&z. ,.v." i pfc a a -. Pc Chania on the Northern coast of the Island is the kind of town where it s easy to meet the locals. Captiva Ingrete camping by the sea by  Seldom or. Special to stars & stripes Mediterranean t he weather is attraction enough but the charms of Crete also include its people an captivating places to  is an Ideal time to explore this greek Island with daytime temperatures in the mid-70s and 80s, and few Rainy Days. There Are no crowds and prices Are not yet at Peak season highs. A rewarding Way to tour Crete is by rental car or jeep camping along the Way. A vehicle can be arranged prior to arrival or once in Iraklion. Expect to pay around 25,000 drachma $200 per week for unlimited mileage. Camping allows one to see the cretan Countryside at bargain prices. Facilities will generally be Good but bring Shower shoes and toilet paper. You can t read enough about Crete beforehand. Break out the history books and learn More about Crete today. Everyone has heard of Nikos Kazantzakis Zor Bathe greek but read his Freedom or death for a better picture of Crete and its people. A Good All around Guidebook to Crete is let s go Greece. Before leaving read the entire introduction up to Athens and the Section on Crete. The first impulse in Iraklion will be to escape As quickly As possible. However a Quick visit to the archaeological museum will introduce you to cretan history until roman times. This museum will help you understand the excavations at Knossos agia Trade or phae Stos. If time permits visit Kazantzakis peaceful grave. Don t be discouraged by the crowds in Iraklion. The thousands of foreigners who visit the Island tend to Cluster along the North coast leaving the West and Southern coasts and Interior relatively free for exploration. An Ideal tour of Crete with limited budget and time could take two weeks. This allows time to explore the coast and Countryside while looking for a spot to establish Camp for a few Days. Above All Don t hurry. Take time to enjoy the experience and the people of Crete. Once the owner of a cafe or Taverna sees you a few times he May offer you much More than just a Good meal. Escape from Iraklion along the Southern Road to Matala. A Stop at the minoan Center of phae Stos will be a Beautiful break from the driving. The Palace at phae Stos has remained virtually the same As it was when found by archaeologists in the late 19th Century and provides a Stark contrast to the reconstruction at Knossos. Enjoy a walk around the grounds then discover the Central courtyard and surrounding rooms. Let your imagination run wild As to How this Palace must have appeared 4,000 years ago. As was the popular Palace Knossos this one was also destroyed around 1450 . Very Little reconstruction has been done on the Palace most of the vases jewelry and Palace articles Are on display at the archaeological museum in Iraklion. The Guidebook sold there is fairly useless just wander around piecing the Palace together on your own. The hippies who once frequented the caves of Matala Are gone yet a few hedonists still seek out this Paradise. Pitch a tent at Matala camping and head for the Beach. If you can pull yourself away from the water meals can be found at the covered Market on the Street along the waterfront or at any of the seafood restaurants facing the Beach. Morning is the time to explore the hippie caves of Matala. The caves were carved As elaborate tombs then used by the germans in world War ii As defense against English submarines. They became popular again in the 1960s when hippies moved in. Don t attempt to sleep in the caves now they reek of excrement and Are frequently raided by thieves and police. Head along the Southern coast toward Plakias stopping at any one of the Beautiful Beach towns on the Way. Though Plakias itself has much to offer find the swimming Cove of Damoni. Camping is free there and the one Taverna will take care of your other Basic needs. Damoni s greatest feature is its wide and virtually empty Beach. People have come there for a single Day and ended up staying for their entire vacation. After the Solitude of Crete s Southern coast the cities of re Hymnon and Chania ease you Back into civilization with Little trouble. This civilization though is typically cretan slow paced and relaxing. Near re Hymnon establish Camp at Arkadia continued on Page 14 Friday april 4, 1986 the stars and stripes Page 13