European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - September 11, 1986, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Mango i cup peeled seeded finely diced cucumber5 Tablespoons peeled finely diced Jacama optional 2 Tablespoons finely chapped scallions Salt to taste if desired 1 Pound cooked peeled Small shrimp 1 Tablespoon finely chopped fresh coriander note the venture of Jacama i bulbous Brown Root it similar to that of a radish or a water Chestnut. Many fresh fruit markets particularly those catering to a latin american clientele May carry it. Combine the Chilli a thicken Broth Saffron and Lime Juke in the Container of .1 food processor or preferably in electric Blunder. Blend thoroughly. Pour the mixture into a Small mixing bowl and let stand for a minimum of 10 minutes. Drop the tomatoes into a  of boiling water my let stand 1j seconds. Drain immediately. Peet he tomatoes and discard the Peel and stems. Cut the tomatoes crosswise in half ind remove the seeds. Cut the Tomato flesh into very Small Dice. There should be about two cups. Combine the tomatoes yellow Pepper Cantaloupe papaya Mango Cucumber  and scallions in a mixing bowl. Add the Chili and Broth mixture and stir to blend. Add Salt to taste. There should be about four cups. Refrigerate at least one hour. Cut each shrimp crosswise in half. There should be about 1 cups. Roll the shrimps in chopped coriander. Spoon equal portions of the soup into four to six chilled soup bowls.  each bowl with equal portion of the shrimp yield four to six Servings. Chocolate Pecan cake with tropical fruit custard sauce 4 Tablespoons butter plus butter for greasing a cake pan flour for dusting a cake pan 1 cup heavy Cream 2 ounces squares unsweetened chocolate chopped 10 a ounces squares semisweet chocolate chopped 5 Large eggs i cup sugar 1 Teaspoon pure Vanilla extract % cup toasted or roasted pecans chopped tropical fruit custard sauce see recipe preheat the oven to 350 degrees butter the inside of a nine Inch cake pan. Place a round of Parchment or waxed paper Cut to fit in the Bottom of the pan. Butter the round of paper. Add about one Tablespoon of Lour to the buttered pan and shake it around to Coal the Bottom and sides of the pan. Shake out excess. Combine the Cream and four Tablespoons of butter in a Saucepan. When the mixture simmers add All the chocolate and stir around the Bottom and sides until melted. Remove from the heat and let stand break the eggs into a heat proof earthenware or Metal mixing bowl. Stir in the sugar and Vanilla. Place the bowl Over _ no in a Basin of simmering water beating the mixture vigorously with a wire whisk. After about one minute when the eggs Are warm and not Overly healed remove the bowl from the Basin and beat Withan electric mixer. Continue beating until the mixture is tripled in volume and reaches room temperature about 7 to 10 minutes. Scrape about one third of he chocolate mixture into a Large mixing bowl. Add about one third of the egg mixture and blend Well with a Spatula. Add the remaining egg mixture and fold it in. Fold in the remaining chocolate mixture and stir in the pecans. Pour the Batter into the prepared pan. Smooth Over he  the cake pan in a larger pan and pour boiling water around the cake pan. Place in the oven and bake 4s to 50 minutes or until a cake tester inserted in the Center of the cake comes out clean. Remove the cake from the oven and let it sit in the Little imagination jazzed up a mexican classic by Ohn Demers United press International for the firs time in history Anturkar is embracing a mexican cuisine 1h,it owes More to the Rich regional styles of an entire Republic Thon the fast food cliches first encountered in Border towns. From new York to Lew Angeles. Chicago to new Orleans mexican restaurants ire dishing tip Mori than tacos and enchiladas. And they Are doing so in settings  removed from the service windows and cheap tables in which most americans first discovered what they called mexican food. In some cases the foods Are dramatic Lily different from those sampled in the . The Region Murid Veracruz for instance has Given the world Enumerable seafood delicacies Yel for the longest time these were ignored North of the Border. In other cases the difference is not so much in substance As in style. Mexicans really do cat things like tortillas and re Fried Beans. Bui the emphasis now is on fresh ingredients and even fresher flavors All achieved through the expenditure of time and Money. With this increased investment comes a  increased awareness on both sides of the Border. It s a deeply held bul erroneous myth that mexican food is always hot said Aida Gabilondo a revered Home Cook in Mexico cily and author of a new Book called mexican family cooking Fawcett $19.95. Ii is excessively hot in some restaurants because hut s what people seem to expect but mexican family cooking Seldom is. When you have several generations eating together including children and old people you can t serve searing dishes. The food is seasoned moderately and then we have sauces from mild to hot on the  Gabilondo s Book is the must intriguing selection from a wide array of mexican cookbooks hitting the shelves this season. They Range in Content from traditional to Avant Garde from True country mexican to the . Variation increasingly recognized As Tex mex or southwestern. A Cook who has taught extensively in her own country and inspired three of her four daughters to prepare food professionally Gabilondo serves up 260 Mouth watering dishes ranging from Cadillo from the Northern state of Chihuahua to red snapper baked in a sauce of Tomato Pimento and Jalapenos from Veracruz. In recent years Gabi Lourio has gained some recognition in the United slates through food served by her daughter  .11 cafe Marimba on new York s upper East Side and through her own preparations at posh gatherings in new York and colonial Williamsburg. In keeping with her family approach to things however Gabilondo not Only pays tribute to her daughters but to the  who Gol her started on a cattle ranch in Northern Mexico. Three Gener Lions lived under one roof in perfect Harmony she recalled. We were always surrounded by the piquant Irmas of cooking. My earliest memory is of playing Cook under huge umbrella Trees in our Yard. My grandmother who never owned ,1 Cookbook might me to Cook when 1 was 11 or 12." a Fine example of Gabilondo s cooking is her recipe for Green enchiladas from mexican family cooking a familiar  from dozens of dining experiences yet in  achieves through sheer  Ion a whole new level of class. Green enchiladas Green sauce 1 Pound fresh or canned mexican Lom Lillos peeled 3 cups water 2 garlic cloves 1 cup Cilantro leaves i cup sliced onion 2 Tablespoons salad Oil Ivi Teaspoons Salt 1 Teaspoon sugar 2 cups sour Cream w cup milk 1 i Teaspoons mashed garlic Salt to taste i cup salad Oil 12 fresh or Frozen Corn tortillas thawed 2 cups shredded cooked Chicken Yaj Pound Monterey Jack cheese sliced 2 Tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese in a Large Saucepan Combine the Tom Lillos and water. Cook until tender about 5 minutes. Drain. In a food processor or blender Combine the Tom Lillos garlic Cilantro and onion. Puree until smooth and creamy. In medium Saucepan heal the Oil. Add the Puree Vilt and sugar simmer for 5 minutes and Sel aside. I Reluct the oven to 350 degrees. In a Small bowl Combine the sour Cream milk garlic and Vili to table. In a Small Skillet heat the Oil. Wilh tongs carefully add the tortillas one at a Lime and soften for 5 seconds. Turn and soften other Side for 2 seconds. Drain on paper towels. Spread a thin layer of the Green  in a in by-9 Inch Balling dish spread each Tortilla Wilh 1 Tablespoon of the sauce then top with the Chicken and Monterey Lack. Roll up and place seam Side Down in the prepared dish. Top with the remaining sauce and drizzle Wilh sour Cream mixture. Sprinkle with Parmesan then bake for 20 Iii nuts or until healed through. Makes 6 Servings. Water Bath about 30 minutes. Remove the cake from the water Bath and wipe off the Bottom of the pan. Invert the cake onto a Platter remove the round of paper and let stand to room temperature. Serve with tropical fruit custard sauce. Yield 10 to 12 Servings. Tropical fruit custard sauce 3 very Ripe mangoes or papayas about 1vi pounds 1 cup milk 1 Teaspoon pure Vanilla extract 3 urge egg Yolks i cup sugar i Tup heavy Cream or preferably Creme Fraiche pee the mangoes or papayas and discard the skins. The flesh should be quite soft. Put the flesh into a food Mill and turn the handle to Strain the pulp. Discard the seeds. There should be slightly More than one cup of pulp. Put t he pulp into the Container of a food processor and blend thoroughly. Set aside. Put the milk into a Saucepan and add the Vanilla bring to the boil and remove from heat. Put the Yolks in a mixing bowl and add the sugar. Beat rapidly with a wire whisk or electric mixer. Beat until Light and Huffy. Gradually add the hot milk beating vigorously. Pour this mixture into a Saucepan and continue beating. Cook Over Low to medium heat it is Besl if a heat pad is used beating constantly. Cook the sauce stirring until it reaches 185 degrees on a Candy thermometer or until it Coats a wooden spoon. It must be thickened and custard like. Meanwhile prepare a bowl of ice and Sel the Saucepan in in. Stir occasionally until cooled. Stir in the Cream or Creme Fraiche and the Mango or papaya Puree. Serve Wilh chocolate Pecan cake yield about two cups. Top Lembur 11,1986 i