European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - July 14, 1988, Darmstadt, Hesse                                From left a segment of the 1619 drawing of the Blue hat Tower and Ebri Hach s insignia the old Bathhouse and the ruins of he Castle built by Heinrch Vii in 1227. A Neckar Valley jewel Story and photos by Andrew Cowin the Neckar Valley upstream from Heidelberg is a favorite haunt of those who enjoy the Romance of ruined castles embedded in a landscape of deep Forest and undulating Hills evoking daydreams of robber Barons and damsels in distress. A Lovely stopping off Point for such a trip is Eberbach a Small town attractively situated Between River and Forest whose carefully restored Center bears witness to a Long and interesting history. Eberbach traces its origins to 1227, when Heinrich Vii of hohenstaufen bought the neighbouring Castle from the Bishop of Worms. He promptly began to build a larger Castle and a walled town below. It was part of a Large scale undertaking by Heinrich to erect strategically important bases to restore and extend the authority of the emperor which had dwindled considerably since his father Friedrich ii had chosen Sicily As his new domicile. In 1235, Heinrich made the mistake of raising a rebellion against his irksome father. The revolt proved abortive and Heinrich spent seven years in prison before in despair he committed suicide. The imposing ruins of Heinrich s Castle and two others one built earlier one later Are a worthwhile goal for those with a surplus of Energy offering a Fine View of the town and the Neckar Valley. If you want to drive part of the Way take the Road toward Waldbrunn until you reach the posted parking area. Watch out for the Borte hut a ghost who supposedly lurks in the shadows emerging Only to give ill behaved children a whack around the ear. Of Heinrich vol s medieval town Only parts of the surrounding Wall and fortifications survive the Center having been devastated by a fire in 1340. Very attractive is the Way the remnants of the six foot thick Wall were incorporated into houses built later they look As if they grew out of the old masonry. Four towers adorn the Wall the Pul Berturm or powder Tower the Blaue hut or Blue hat so named because of its Blue Pinnacle the round Rosent urm or Rose Tower and the 14th-Century hasp Elterm or Winch Tower named after a device for lifting prisoners in and out of the door less ground floor prison. Four other towers which used to be part of the fortifications were unfortunately ripped Down in 1872 to Cope with modern traffic  the distinctive shape of the Ivy covered Blaue hut contributed to a curious episode in the town s history. A few years ago Karl Rodolf Muller was driving by when the Tower caught his Eye he recalled seeing that Silhouette before. Much searching through his memory and old Cata logs brought him to a drawing of an unknown town in a collection in Budapest. This drawing probably by one of the school of dutch refugees living in Frankenthal dates from 1619 and is the oldest known depiction of Eberbach. Next to the Pul Berturm whose clock dates Back to 1776, stands the town s oldest House the thalheim Sches Haus built in about 1390. Its most famous occupants were Edward Duke of Kent and his wife Victoria Marie Luise of Leininger the parents of Queen Victoria of Britain. As the couple lived in the House from 1818 to Early 1819 and Victoria was born on May 24, 1819, some Ebe Bachers still insist that the Queen to be was born on a Barge on the Neckar not in London As her birth certificate suggests. One of the most interesting buildings in Eberbach is the alte bauhaus old Bathhouse whose name derives from its original function in the 16th Century. A syphilis epidemic closed it in the 18th Century. Eberbach s Bathhouse apparently the finest surviving example of its kind in Baden Wurtemburg was painstakingly restored about 10 years ago after plans to the powder Tower rises above the old town Wall. Boards head fountains and a half timbered House. Demolish it to create a parking lot had been abandoned and its Beautiful vaulted ground floor is now a very pleasant restaurant upstairs gourmets can enjoy the creations of one of Germany most distinguished chefs Heinrich Gotzenberger. Eberbach has a Large number of reasonably priced watering spots the most curious of which is the Beaumeister built As a Church in 1777. Throughout the old town Center visitors Are sure to be charmed by the outstanding collection of half timbered houses most of which Date from the late 15th and Early 16th centuries. One of the prettiest Corners of the town is the group of houses around the Bettendorf sche Tor the tiny Gateway in the East Wall. In one of the houses at Pfarr Hof 2, there is a Wool shop where courses in spinning and weaving Are offered and it is sometimes possible to watch these ancient crafts being practice. One feature of the half timbered houses of Eberbach is that the ground floor is always of solid Stone the reason being that in former times the Neckar was prone to Rise and flood the town with depressing regularity. This is Well illustrated by the water Marks visible at the River end of Hau Strasse where it can be seen that the record level was reached in 1824, when the River Rose 10 meters above its present level. About 50 Yards Down from that end of Haup Strasse is amalie Pforte the narrowest Street in Eberbach. Its Width is about two feet. A striking feature of several houses in the town Are the Graffito paintings most of which were made in the 1930s. This technique involves painting several layers of different coloured plaster on a Wall and then scraping layers off until one reaches the desired color. The Best such paintings Are to be found on the hotel Karpfen were incidents from the history Eberbach Are depicted the moving of the University of Heidelberg to Eberbach during plague times for instance and an incident from the thirty years War in which a swedish Soldier took a swing at the town registrar with a Pickas the latter defending himself with the hefty town Register. Further such paintings can be found on the Rabbenstein the town s oldest restaurant. Adjacent to the hotel Karpfen is the town museum which is open tuesdays and fridays from 2 to 5 . And sundays from 1 to 5 . Admission is free. It contains interesting exhibitions about the history and local wildlife of Eberbach. The Star of the show is the last Wolf of the Odenwald which was Laid Low in 1866. Until october the museum has a splendid exhibition of military headgear and insignia from 1675 to 1918. A Little to the North of the old town Center rises a pretty wooded Hillock called the ohrs Beo which is Worth the walk because it contains a Bird Park and a Tower which affords a Fine View of the town and surroundings. On the opposite Side of the River in the town of Neckar Zimmersbach is a similar Hill which is the site of a fascinating Herb Garden containing More than 100 species one of the most extensive collections in Europe admission is free. The main churches of Eberbach Date from the 19th Century the impressive twin towers of the Catholic Church providing a Well known local landmark. In the summer Organ concerts take place in the protestant Church thursdays at 8 . Eberbach has two main festivals a Spring lest and the famous cuckoo Market which takes Plu e Over the last weekend in August and is one of the most important festivals of Southern Germany. The title Springs from the local nickname for Ebe Bachers whose origin goes Back to 1604. Apparently in that year an Uberbacher was served a meal consisting of cuckoos though he had been told that he would be served the finest doves. His failure to notice this practical joke resulted in the unflattering nickname which the inhabitants of Eberbach have accepted with Good humor. Ebe Bachers gratefully undergo All manner of bizarre treatments for the Sake of their health. The local water is believed to have Healing properties indeed alchemist Leonhart Thurneyssen mentioned its medicinal qualities Over 400 years ago. As to whether he saw any use for it with respect to Alchemy is unclear although the town has certainly discovered How to convert water in Gold. The new Kurz Entrum or cure Center houses an excellent tourist information Center where i English is spoken. One can find out about interesting walks in the area for example to the nearby Kat Tenbuckel the highest Hill in the Odenwald 1,878 feet. Eberbach is about 19 Miles along the Nee lir from Heidelberg the drive takes about 35 minutes. Boat trips about three hours each Way from i u Ilov Sherg provide a More relaxing and charming Way of \ i iting this Lovely town. Cowin a freelance writer lives in Heidelberg. 12 stripes Magazine july 14, 1988 july 14, 1988 stripes Magazine 13