European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - July 28, 1988, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Above the Fountain  surrounding half timbered houses of Ladenburg s Central Market Square. At left the twin towers of St. Callus Church Are a feature of the town s Skyline a carving that decorates one of the old houses. Was always rather tenuous  in . 260, they were thrown Back by the Alemanni  the town was Laid waste. A Century later the romans advanced again  recaptured lop Dunum but they made no Effort to restore the town to its former glory. Instead they erected a Large Stone fort that required Only 40 men for its defense. The lower parts of some of this fortress Walls can still be seen along with a Section of medieval Wall they have been incorporated into the new Rathaus or City Hall. Increasing pressure from migrating barbarian tribes soon proved too much for the dwindling resources of the beleaguered Empire  the legions were compelled to leave lop Dunum to its Fate Early in the 5th Century. Inevitably there followed a period of desolation  destruction the dark Ages had begun. Not until the 8th Century when the town passed under the jurisdiction of the Bishop of Worms did i Edenburg begin to regain some vestige of its former glory. Remains from this period can still be seen next to the Chapel of St. Sebastian. In the years up to 1500, Ladenburg reached the Pinnacle of its importance  the traces of this time Are what make it so fascinating today. Although now surrounded by Large modern residential  Industrial areas the City s medieval Core remains in a remarkable state of preservation inviting visitors to explore  become hopelessly lost amid its tangled labyrinths. Of the town s medieval churches the oldest is the Chapel of St. Sebastian by the museum unfortunately it is not open to the Public. However its Tower dating from before . 1000, is Worth a close look due to its extraordinary sculptures which provide striking evidence that Early christianity absorbed Many features of the Pagan Cults it replaced. The rest of the Church is a curious mixture of gothic  baroque architecture. The St. Callus Church whose two elegant octagonal towers Are such a distinctive feature of the town s Skyline mainly dates from the 13th  14th centuries  is always open to the Public. The Interior is pleasant if a Little Over restored but the unwary visitor can easily Overlook the True Gem of the building. To find this pass through the opening in the altar rail  Down the narrow staircase on the left switching on the Light As you go. You will then enter the romanesque crypt consecrated in 1004  amid the Stout columns displaying faded traces of frescoes you will feel transported Back to the time when this masterpiece was constructed. With regard to secular buildings extensive stretches of the medieval Wall can still be seen including the round Helen term or Witch s Tower  the nearby St. Martin s Gate which contains a Large sculpture of the Saint cutting his cloak in two  giving half of it to a beggar. But the real Delight of the town is the bewildering array of half timbered houses each one More attractive than the last. The Market place is an Ideal starting Point for every Street leading off begins with a series of finely restored medieval houses. Although it is unfair to single out one particular building perhaps the most remarkable is that which now houses the restaurant Zur Sac Pfeife roughly opposite the St. Callus Church. It shows a decidedly italian influence with its Lovely Loggia like balconies. If the Price list does t Shock you too much you might try forging through the restaurant to see the pretty court at the rear of the House. Although Ladenburg was of considerable importance at the time of the reformation  Renaissance in the Early 16th Century it thereafter slowly declined to become a Village of almost no significance. Perhaps it was the quiet of the place that encouraged Carl Benz to retire there in 1905. His House near the was Berturm or water Tower is now a Small museum open sundays from 2 a to 5 30 . Admission is free. It houses a copy of his original one Cylinder four horsepower three wheel vehicle with a top Speed of 16 Kilometres per hour. The museum also contains information relating to the Early history of the automobile. Fans of Veteran cars will also want to visit the kleines museum in the rheingau Strasse open saturdays  sundays from 2 to 6 . It contains 34 old timers  various Memorabilia  paraphernalia of tin1 Early years of the Century. Opposite this museum there is an interesting shop that Sells historic toys  in the nearby Larberg Asse is the mechanical musical instrument museum open saturdays  sundays from 2 to . Adults pay r Marks  children pay 3 Marks Tor admission. The i Obde Ngau museum open saturdays irom 2 0 to 5 30 . And sundays from i i . To 12 u . And 2 .-50 to is-50 .apart from containing celtic  roman finds has interesting displays of local history As Well As a curious assortment of rustic furniture  fittings. Admission is 1.50 Marks. Cowin a freelance writer lives in Heidelberg. July 28, 1988 stripes Magazine 13