European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - January 7, 1989, Darmstadt, Hesse                                By Mary Neth consumer editor up to modern times literature has been lace with descriptive references of the fabric of the Day s  Kipling wrote for example of theft annexed fools at the wicket William Cowper of an honest Man Broadcloth without and a warm heart within and Samuel Pepys worried about paying for the silk suit that had Cost much  today is the Era of Man made fibres and names like Euk Rome Glosman and Xena Aren t the stuff of sonnets. It is a rare garment that is made of 100 percent anything and the Trade names can be mind boggling. For those who hate dragging out the ironing Board these synthetics do make sense however. Synthetics can be broken Down into several Basic categories. Each Calls for a different Type of care. Knowing the Type of care needed can help keep your wardrobe in Good shape. Following is a Basic list with common fiber trademarks in parentheses. Acetate and Tri acetate Ari loft Arnel celanese Chrome spun Estron Lanese Lotura this fabric is soft and silk like and both Moth and mildew resistant. Dry cleaning is recommended unless the care Label indicates the fabric is washable. Low heat should be used for both drying and pressing and the cloth should be ironed on the wrong Side while Damp or a press cloth used. Oily stains should be removed before washing. Mod acrylic a Rilan Elura Sef Verel generally used in hairpieces blankets drapery or upholstery fabrics. Some such fabrics can be machine washed. Low ironing temperatures should be used. Steam should not be used. Nylon Antron Cadon Vantrece Carolan Enk aloft Qiana Teflon used in hosiery lingerie and Many types of Woven and knitted fabrics. It picks up colors from other fabrics so Whites should be washed separately. Washes easily dries quickly. If ironed the lowest setting should be used. Olefin har Culon marvels Vectera used in knitted garments hosiery blankets Robes and sleepers. This fabric is sensitive to heat and should not be exposed to temperatures Over 200" degrees f. Can be cleaned with a cloth and solvent. Polyester Avlin Dacron fort Rel Kodel Zerylene Revira Vyron Zefran used for durable press fabrics. Elasticity makes them useful in stretch fabrics. Machine washing and drying preserves durable press characteristics. After washing a Cool rinse should be used. Oil stains should be treated before washing. If ironing is needed a Low setting is required. Rayon Visco Avril Colora Euk Rome Xena Zantrell used in clothing and household fabrics. Follow care instructions. Do not wring or use bleach. Spandex Dur spun Glosman Lycra Shandelle stretch Ever Varene used for foundation garments bathing suits Snow suits and ski pants. Avoid High heat and bleach. Do not Iron. Another synthetic is Ballon which is used in crimped continuous filament Man made yarns generally Nylon. The crimped yarns provide a moderate amount of stretch and greatly increase the bulkiness of the fabric. Yester year s natural fabrics now often Are combined with synthetic fibres. Common fabric names include Batiste soft sheer Plain weave fabric usually made of combed yarns of Fine Cotton or polyester and Cotton blends. May be made of Rayon. Bedford Cord Strong rib weave fabric with raised Lengthwise Cord. Made of Cotton Wool worsted Rayon silk or blends. Wears extremely Well and is used for dresses Coats suits Riding habits sportswear and upholstery. Broadcloth closely Woven Plain weave fabric with distinctive Fine Cross Wise rib and Lustrous appearance. Differs chiefly from poplin by having a somewhat finer rib. May be of Cotton blended with a synthetic. Butcher Linen a Plain Woven dress fabric made of Rayon Staple or a blend of Rayon Staple and Cotton. The yarns Are spun so As to have irregularities similar to those in Linen. Butcher s Linen is a Strong heavy fabric made with Linen used for aprons. When bleached it May be used for _ suiting and dresses. Chambray smooth durable Plain Woven fabric with coloured Warp and unbleached or White filling that gives a mottled effect. Used for shirts dresses and children s clothes. Also applied to a similar but heavier carded yarn fabric used for work and children s play clothes. Corduroy a Strong soft pile fabric with distinct Lengthwise cords called  narrow Wales called pin Wale and wider Wales called wide  the foundation May be Plain or twill weave. The fabric itself is made of Cotton Rayon or blends. It May be piece dyed or printed. It usually is washable and used for Coats suits jackets dresses houseboats Robes skirts and sportswear. Cotton the fabric is made from fibres taken from around the seed of the Cotton Plant. Cotton is the world s major textile fiber and accounts for slightly less than two thirds of total fiber consumption. It is extremely versatile and often blended with other fibres. Modern fabric finishing techniques have further increased its desirable properties. Crash cloth originally made from Cotton or Linen or combination of these fibres. May now be made from various Staple fibres and blends. The material is rugged and substantial in feel. The yarn is Strong but irregular. The fabric is of fairly Good texture. Crepe a lightweight fabric with crinkly or pebbly surface. It is produced by using High twist yarns which contract in finishing chemical treatments and special weaves or combinations of All these factors. Originally silk crepes May now be produced using Many fibres. Denim a firm twill weave Cotton fabric that is extremely durable and economical. Heavier weight denims usually Blue or Brown Are used for overalls and work clothes. Lighter weight denims with a softer finish Are made in a variety of colors and patterns and used for play clothes and draperies. Dimity a lightweight Plain weave Cotton fabric with Warp Cord made by bunching and weaving several Warp threads together. Dimity can be White dyed printed or flock dotted. It often is used for lingerie. Duck tightly Woven fabric with Plain or rib weaves. Originally Cotton or Linen now May be made with Man made fibres and blends. Made in Many weights and constructions. May be natural color or dyed. Used for Utility clothing awnings tents tarpaulins Etc. Felt a dense fabric Structure built up by the interlocking of fibres by a suitable combination of mechanical work chemical action moisture and heat without spinning weaving or knitting. Generally Wool and or hair fibres such As Rabbit hair Are used either by themselves or in combination with other fibres vegetable or Man made. Flannel soft napped fabric in Plain or twill weave. Made of Rayon and acetate spun Rayon spun Nylon a Rilan Dacron Orion Woolen worsted or combinations. Flannel comes in solid colors plaids stripes and prints. Washable but May shrink. Heavier weights used for suits Coats skirts sportswear Robes houseboats. Medium and lightweights for blouses dresses and sportswear. Flannelette a lightweight Cotton flannel napped on either Side or both and often printed. Largely used for sleeping garments. Flock very Short Fine fibres which Are bonded to a fabric or film with an adhesive to provide decorative effects. Gabardine tightly Woven Steep willed fabric with distinct Diagonal ribs on the right Side. Can be Wool Cotton Rayon or mixture Lustrous or dulled. Hard finished. Gingham yarn dyed Plain weave Cotton fabric Woven in stripes plaids and checks. Glen plaid Short for Glen Urquhart plaid a Woolen or worsted willed fabric named for a scottish clan. Homespun originally fabrics hand Woven in the Home. Now the name for Many Woolen fabrics closely Woven with coarse yarns. Hop sacking rough open Basket weave fabric. Made of Cotton Wool Linen spun Rayon or blends. Looks like sacking used to gather hops. Jersey a Plain stitch in contrast with rib knit knitted fabric. Warp knit a Type of fabric in which the yarns run Lengthwise in the fabric. Examples Are Tricot Raschel and milanese. Knit stitch a Type of fabric manufacturing in which stitching yarns in Warp form Are fed into knitting Needles which knit them through and around other yarn systems. Examples Are Malmo Arachne and lok Loop. Kodel trademark of Eastman chemical co. For polyester Staple and yarn. Lawn Crisp sheer Fine Plain weave Cotton fabric. Combed or carded yarns. Not As Crisp As organdy or As soft As voile. It May be White dyed or printed have flock dots or be crinkled. It is used for dresses houseboats Robes and lingerie. Leno a Type of weave in which one set of Warp ends is made to Cross Over adjacent ends which weave straight. Used for lightweight open mesh fabrics. Linen Strong Lustrous yarn or fabric made of smooth surfaced flax fibres. Plain weave or damask weave for table linens. Used for wearing apparel household articles fancy work. Muslin Plain weave Cotton fabrics of carded yarns. Many different qualities from lightweight Long cloth to heavy sheeting. Finer grades made of combed yarns. May be Given finishes. Used for dresses lingerie sheeting. Organdy a transparent Crisp finish Given to Muslin made with Fine Cotton yarns with More than the usual amount of twist in them. Pellon a Trade name for non Woven lining textiles. Percale printed or solid Cotton fabric with firm Plain weave. Often used in sheeting. The finest Quality is made of combed yarn. Pin Wale a very narrow Ridge or rib in a fabric from 16 to 23 Wales to the Inch. For example pin Wale Corduroy. Pique a firmly Woven Cotton fabric with ribbed corded or ridged Wales. Plaids fabrics patterned with squares or rectangles made by stripes of different colors crossing at right angles. Poplin a sturdy fabric of Cotton silk Rayon Etc., in Plain weave with Fine Cross ribbing. Sailcloth extremely durable firmly Woven Cotton of the Duck Type. Usually Sanford Zed. Seersucker lightweight fabric with permanently Woven in puckered surface. Swiss sheer Plain Woven Cotton fabric usually Crisp and stiff used for curtains. May be Plain dotted or patterned. Tartans fabrics Woven or printed in Many coloured plaids or checks. Developed by scottish clans with a different pattern to identify each. Terry cloth Cotton fabric completely covered with surface loops. Extremely water absorbent and used primarily for Bath towels and Beach Robes. Twill a cloth Woven so As to have parallel Diagonal lines or ribs. Voile a Fine sheer fabric made of Cotton silk Wool or Rayon. Waffle cloth a cloth so named because of its characteristic weave. It also is called  whip Ord a twill weave fabric similar to gabardine but with a More pronounced Diagonal rib on the right Side making the cords resemble the lashes of a whip. Wool fibres from the fleece of sheep Lamb of the hair of Angora or Cashmere Goat. Page 16 the stars and stripes saturday january 7,1989