European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - April 7, 1989, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Tasty Reading continued from Page 13 held in Iho 1880s thai ingredients became standardized and tabulated America s Tongel lived Cookbook Iho Fannie Farmer Cook Book was first published As i to 0asioncooffingsenoofccotrbool in1896 another Tav Onlo Hal has come Down through Iho years la the settlement Cook Book Erst published in 1901. Tho Biliy Docker cookbooks Slit popular also go Back to this Era they evolved from miss Parloa Snew.  Iho 1890s. The new and revised ring bound edition of butty Crocker s Cookbook $19.95 was the lop Selling Cookbook at stars and stripes bookstores last year. It sold to the Luno of 5,000 copies pulling it 70th in the Overall list Oil 00 Besl Sellers. A practical Basic Book 432 pages. Ii includes a Lisl of Iresh herbs and their use on the inside Iron cover yields  equivalents Are listed on the inside Back cover Prim Betty came on the scone in 1921. That was when the Namo was first used As a signature on Lei lets replying of cooking questions. The name was Given a face in .1936 since then. Belly has been updated seven limes Wilh hew hairstyles and dress. Other Basic books popular with stars aha stripes Bookstore customers Aro the better Homes and gardens new Cook Book and me Joy of cooking the 465 Page better Homes and gardens new Cook Book $18 95 also comes in convenient ring bound form its publishers claim it is the Bosl Selling hardcover Cookbook of All Lima the inside front cover gives charts on broiling a a oven temperatures for meals poultry and fish weights and measures plus a Standard White sauce recipe and one Tor pie pastry. The inside Back cover lists emergency substitutions and ingredient equivalents. Both it and me Betty Cracker Book include nutrition chairs the belly Crocker Book also lists estimated calories Lor Servings. The classic 915-Pago Joy of cooking Cookbook by Irma s. Rombauer and Marion Rombauer Becker $16.95 oilers afar greater scope of cooking it delves into classic and foreign cuisine and is a favorite of a number of outstanding american Chels. Julia child says if she were limited 16 one Cookbook Book in English this would be her Choice. Craig Claiborne says its " a lines Cookbook available and Zooa Masler of clarity James Beard lauds it for covering the entire Gamul of Kitchen procedures and being easy Louth it would be difficult though to choose a Clowen in and the Good housekeeping illustrated Cookbook $24.34. A Book Lor both the Novice and experienced , ils 528 pages Are decorated with illustrations that take the Cook step by step through every phase of food preparation. The 1.400 recipes Are Lar irom Dull and Uherc also is a wealth of extra information Complete menus for entertaining an illustrated dictionary of herbs and spices cutting and carving directions Siars  bookstores Slock More than just Basic cookbooks. Close to 200 titles Are  distribution to regional stores. Among them Are numerous books Dev led to Loreign and specially cooking included in the latter is Betty Crocket s. Microwave cooking Book $14 95 As the introduction Points out the microwave once looked upon As something of an Abracadabra Kitchen Gadget has come of age Tho 96-Page Book explains he whys and whore ores of the microwave and oilers recipes for main dishes vegetables breads desserts soups sandwiches and snacks some of the profoundly simple a Cipos in Hiss Book however seem hardly Worth spoiling out there is certainty no comparison Between those recipes and those altered Edher in lha Joy of cooking or lha Good housekeeping illustrated Cookbook. A a election of the desire a Many americans to to Potito Al least nol overweight is weight watchers Tavonte ropes is 1,95the hardcover 338-pager gives Iho number of problem bread vegetable Tat and calorie exchanges Lor every recipe plus amounts of calories problem at carbohydrate Calcium and cholesterol per serving the recipes were Dona led by presumably slimmed Down members of weigh watchers Ina National and us stall the Grea by Joan Nathan new York times a s soon As the soup course is served Al Many passover seders an age old debate will ensue Light airy to matzoh balls in the Chicken Broth versus heavy Malzo balls. This year  Observance of passover begins alter Sundown on april 19 Light is generally a compliment when applied to irad tonal jewish cuisine considering its usual stick to your thighs Quality. To say that matzoh balls Are Light Means that those solid dumplings a combination of Chicken fat eggs and soaked or ground matzoh puff up into melt in your Mouth morsels when properly cooked in water. The heavy matzoh Ball contingent generally adds enough Chicken lat and matzoh meal to make Tho dumplings firm but chewy. And sometimes it adds enough killings to make them edible pint size Bowling balls or Large Golf balls depending on your perspective. The two Camp s Are secure in the right Ness of their Causa and in the secret of their Success. To prepare firm Derise matzoh balls add a High proportion of matzoh meal to the mixture and Cook for 20 minutes or less. To prepare Light matzoh balls increase the number of eggs used and simmer Tho matzoh balls 30 minutes or longer. The lightest versions usually Call Lor stiffly beaten egg whiles loaded into the mixture Light or heavy plainer filled matzoh balls did not Enier the jewish  Una Al Well  jews expulsion from Spain in 1492. Sephardic and Oriental jaws had never Ealen them. Instead Al the seder meal greek jews Lor example broke up pieces Olin Alvoh in an egg Lemon soup while North african jews avoided matzoh in the soup preferring to add Iresh vegetables matzoh is unleavened bread served during passover to remind Iho jews of their Light from Egypt and of the utile time they had to let lha bread Lisa in their Hasle. When the jews left Spain they headed for Germany and Points Easl entering the land of Iho dumpling or in aedes pronounced Kay Del in yiddish. Culinary changes were quickly Mado to adapt to jewish dietary Laws the results were called Kleis in Gorman or Kne Idalett m yiddish these were dumplings made of liver potato Carrol and even ground Almond and served either id a Chicken soup or in a Chicken and Beel Broth. To retain these favourites for passover further changes wore made to meet the Holiday s special dietary Laws since jews were forbidden to Oai anything leavened during passover s eight Days in memory of the exodus they substituted soaked matzoh and Laler matzoh meal Lor regular hour and soaked bread  still refuse to Eal rna Zoh balls during passover. The  refrain irom any Contact Between matzoh and water in this Case matzoh balls simmering in  said rabbi Yehuda Krinsky. Speaking in new York Lor Tho Lub Vilch hasidic movement. A explained that if matzoh or matzoh meal touches water in will Rise going against the biblical injunction against eating leavened food we eat noodles made from potato starch and eggs instead he said. To the 16th and 19th centuries matzoh Ball recipes began to vary by Region. In Germany and Eastern Europe Mace Ginger Nutmeg and cinnamon were added for spice a seen in the 1871 jewish cookery Book by Esther Levy the lire jewish Cookbook written in America by the late 19lh Century american matzoh Kleis included soaked and drained matzoh onions sauteed in Chicken fat eggs Salt dried Ginger Nutmeg Parsley and Pepper. In Germany and Austria Jows developed a dessert matzoh dumpling Slu fled with apples and raisins that was Fried and then rolled in cinnamon and sugar hungarians had a potato version filled with Plum am. Lithuanian jews served Savory matzoh balls stuffed with meal or sometimes with crushed matzoh both versions were spiked with cinnamon. According Lodr. Doy  a professor of folklore at hebrew University in Jerusalem the use of cinnamon was not accidental. A cinnamon stuffing he said like the secret sweetness Wilheln the spice Box at the Haida Ian service ending the Sabbath represents a wish to stretch the sweetness of the seder meal As Long As possible a selection of passover food items including various matzoh products Genille fish and Kosher. Horseradish will be  at military comm Baries in Europe those who observe passover Are unlikely to View it As an occasion fraught with nutrition cd dangers. But Lor people who Are concerned about eating carefully. The abundance of eggs fat and Salt in the goods served during the eight Day Celebration poses a problem and a Puzzle. The seder the ritual dinner that begins the. Festivities can be especially hazardous because certain traditional foods which Are As immutable As dyed eggs at easter Are filled with these ingredients for most of us there is nothing wrong with an occasional foray into the land of sponge Zakaa and Chicken fat crackling bul passover food has More than ils share of such Pitfalls. I never know How Many hard boiled eggs to Cook Lor the seder said Judy Tenney because i never know How Many people Are going to stick to Thirlow cholesterol diets " Tenney lives in Rye . Page 14 the stars and stripes Friday