European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - June 2, 1989, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Gourmet by Pierre Franey new York times Una Steak is probably the most universally popular fresh ish in the United slates and certainly one of the most versatile Lor Home Cooks. I recently came across some fascinating lore about this Noble species while browsing through the definitive encyclopedia of fish cookery by a j Mcclarie Holt. Riehart & Winston 1977 tuna has been revered since the Lime of the ancient greeks. Aristotle wrote extensively about the species although his facts were a Little muddled. He contended that tuna grew to about 1.200 pounds but lived for Only two years at which Point they exploded from overeating. He also contended that tuna Sank slowly to the Bottom of the sea while sleeping then floated to the surface repeating the Cycle of descent and ascent Over and Over Pliny the elder expanded on Aristotle s theories adding a Story or two of his own. One recalled a supposed confrontation at sea Between a Fleet under Alexander the great and a giant school of tuna. The Fleet won Pliny also contended that the fat of fresh tuna cured ulcers and that the ashes of tuna Heads mixed with Salt and Honey would prevent boils. I cannot vouch for any of tuna s curative Powers but i can at least offer a Good Quick recipe for tuna steaks this Provencal style preparation using a vinegar based sauce complements the Rich moist meat of rare cooked tuna. The Steak is cooked in a Little Olive Oil until Pink in the Center the sauce is made in the skilled by sauteing some garlic then adding tomatoes red wine vinegar Green olives and herbs. Nothing could be simpler you can substitute nig Oise style Black olives if you like and can add any fresh herbs to taste. Such a vibrant dish Calls for the simplest of Side dishes boiled new potatoes for example with a sprinkling of chopped Parsley keeping the pressure on by Jonathan Susskind Baltimore Sunh Ere Are some tips for buying using and storing your pressure cooker units Range in capacity from 4 quarts to 10 quarts but most recipes have been tested Lor use in 6 or 6-quart cookers and would have to be halved Lor use in a 4-Quarl cooker remember you can till the cooker Only half to two thirds Lull ii you Cook Only for one or two people and do not plan to prepare extra food for ire zing. A 4-quart cooker May be useful but for Many people the larger sizes Are More practical. Cooker instructions Call for a Range of minimum liquid requirements from /4-cup to 2 cups. The less liquid required the More versatile the cooker Lor such uses As braising says Cookbook author Lorna Sass. You May wish to Purchase a cooker with a removable pressure regulating valve so the unit can to used As an Ordinary Slock pol or Saucepan some also come Wilh trivets or baskets useful Lor steaming and optimum heat circulation the Best models of cooker have a Small handle opposing the Large handle so they can be carried safely with two hands while hot and full stainless steel cookers Are heavier and More expensive but generally easier to clean unless food is burned on when the lighter less expensive aluminium cookers Are an advantage says consumer reports find out How easy the cooker is to clean. Is it All right to put the pot in the dishwasher is the pressure regulating valve removable or is the regulating system easily cleaned Page 16 clean the pressure regulating valve and Gasket after every use according to manufacturer s instructions it is a Good idea to Check the unit before every use. Too store the cooker unsealed Wilh the lid upside Down or in some other position that will Lessen the Chance of warping or nicking the Gasket. Eventually the Gasket May have to be replaced. Do not use a cooker with a damaged Gasket get to know your cooker before the first use. Read the instruction Booklet carefully not All Are written Well and practice sealing and unseating the cooker quickly and properly Cook for the length of time specified in the recipe then reduce pressure As specified either by setting aside the cooker to Cool on its own or running water Over it to Cool quickly. Generally delicate foods require Quick Cooling soups stews and meats longer Cooling to convert conventional recipes Lor use in a pressure cooker National Presto industries says that a general Rule is to decrease cooking time by two thirds and decrease cooking liquid to about Viz cup More than desired in the finished product. Remember though there must always be some liquid to form steam. Spice amounts also May have to be decreased because there is less liquid to dilute them and because the flavors Don t evaporate or Burn Oil As fast watch the cooking time carefully if in doubt undo Crook by a few minutes rather than risk overcooking and Mushy food. You can always re pressurize or continue cooking conventionally without the lid ii a recipe Calls Lor Browning meal in the cooker before adding liquid and pressurizing be sure to sir up any bits that May have browned and stuck to the Bottom because they Burn Sass says. When making a dish with Barbecue sauce Rice or other ingredients that lend to Burn and stick on an electric Range Sass suggests this procedure at the same time you Start to pressurize the cooker turn another Burner on Low heat and put a heat diffusing device on it. When the cooker comes to pressure Transfer it to the other Burner to continue cooking and Lessen the time spent on High heal. Tuna Steak with tomatoes and olives 4 Boneless skinless tuna steaks about 1 Inch thick and about 1% pounds total weight Salt and freshly ground Pepper to taste 3 Tablespoons Olive Oil 1 Tablespoon finely chopped garlic 2 cups diced peeled and seeded Ripe tomatoes 1 Tablespoon red wine vinegar v cup coarsely chopped Green olives 4 sprigs fresh thyme or 1 Teaspoon dried 4 Tablespoons chopped Parsley. Sprinkle the tuna steaks with Salt and Pepper. Heat 1 Tablespoon of the Olive Oil in a non stick Skillet Large enough to hold the steaks in a single layer. Add the steaks to the Skillet and Cook Over medium heat Lor about 3 minutes. Then turn and Cook for another 3 minutes. Do not overcook. The Center should remain Pink. Transfer to a serving dish. Keep warm. Add the remaining 2 Tablespoons of Oil and the garlic to the Skillet. Cook briefly Over medium High heat do not Brown. Add the tomatoes vinegar olives thyme Salt and Pepper. Bring to a simmer and Cook stirring for 2 minutes. Add the Parsley and blend Well. Pour the mixture Over the fish and serve immediately. Yield 4 Servings. Boiled potatoes with chopped Parsley 12 Small red waxy new potatoes about 1 a pounds Sart to taste 1 Tablespoon butter freshly ground Pepper to taste 2 Tablespoons finely chopped Parsley. Using a Small paring knife or swivel bladed paring knife remove the skin around the Middle of each potato. Leave the remaining skin intact at the top and Bottom. Rinse the potatoes. Put the potatoes in a Saucepan with enough water to cover add Salt to table. Bring to a boil and simmer for 20 minutes or until tender. Drain. Add the butter Pepper and Parsley and toss Well. Serve immediately. Yield 4 Servings. Coffee or Tea brewing the bests aking Coffee and Tea Are old arts. But it s amazing How they have gotten lost through the years. There is a right Way and a wrong Way to brew each and unfortunately they Are not the same. While very hot but not boiling water should be used for Coffee boiling water is Best for Tea. That s for starters. Coffee brewing the perfect cup of Coffee requires the perfect water temperature and the perfect amount of Coffee which requires adjustments for personal taste. The water should be Between 195 less would not be hot enough to extract the flavor of the grind to 205 degrees More would be boiling and Cut off the oxygen while the Best holding temperature is 180 to 185 degrees. To begin plan on 2vi ounces of ground Coffee per 12-cup pot. Pour the grinds into the open filter and pour water Over them. The Best Coffee is fresh Coffee so try to brew a pot using individual prepackaged packets. The Best guarantee of freshness from larger quantities whether whole Beans or ground is air tight storage in the Freezer. Tea the use of hot water leaves most of the Tea flavor in the Tea leaves not in the pot so remember the adage bring the pot to the Kettle not the Kettle to the pot in other words keep the water boiling until you pour it into the Lea pot. Healing the Lea pot first preferably a China or Clay pol with hot tap water helps. Then pour the water Over the Tea about one Teaspoon per person and one Lor the pot and cover to help keep the Aroma in the Tea. Steep for 3 to 5 minutes and remove the leaves immediately. As for storage keep the Tea in an air tight canister in a dark place never put it in the refrigerator because the Tea could absorb moisture there and impair the Quality. Washington Post the stars and stripes Friday june 2,1989