European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - October 04, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                By Paul Dean los Angeles times Antonio is a fishing boat a very old thing of the sea with a rusted Donkey engine that clans and spits but probably will outlive us All. Painted a Hundred times mint Green and White Over splintered gunwales the whaler comes Back to cad ques a Little after Dawn each morning except sunday. Antonio is the local makeup Call. It also is a Village fishmonger bringing lunch and dinner to restaurants and hotels and shellfish for the family Paella. I do not ask the name of the Lone Man at Antonio s wooden Tiller. Nor that of the woman who has waited on the jetty and hidden from the Dawn wind inside a Telephone Booth. To ask would make them aware of a watcher and that would Hurt the moment. So unaware they work Over the inside of the boat on the Horseshoe Beach and tug fish and squid from the  hideaway in Northeast Spain boats line the Rocky Beach in front of whitewashed houses in cad ques. La. Times he sorts the catch and plucks inky glands from the squid she arranges the fish in Flat baskets covers them with hessian and folds the net into a neat pile for tomorrow s work. Then she carries baskets and a steel Yard scale to town and her daily spot in a cobbled courtyard. She has the tiny Triumph of being first to set up shop because Antonio was first Back to the Beach. The other boats a Manuel Eduardo Cucu Rucic and Carmen a Are still at sea and somewhere behind Cape Cross. Cabo de Creus. Farther around the Arm of the Bay closer to town an espresso machine begins hissing and Home Fried cd Burros Are sugared at bar Meliton. Tap. Tap. Tap. A sign is tacked to a Post. It says the Vilaj Uiga soccer team will play cad ques this weekend for the Campione Tercera division Juvinile. Clatter. Local pottery a hand painted tureens and enormous servers a is being stacked for display outside ceramics arte Sanas. A huge and weary German Shepherd lumbers toward the Beach looking for people and ready to answer to whatever name sounds Friendly. Cad ques is awake. Cad ques pronounce it Kah Dah Kez was the final Stop on our looping wander of Spain pinpointed for no better reason than that the Village neatly completed the Circle hooking Back to Madrid. We author accompanied by co vivant really knew nothing about the place. An acquaintance had mentioned it but following the vacation recommendations of acquaintances is not something i recommend. Robert Kane in Spain at its Fiest blessed cad ques As his favorite Costa brava town. He then promptly kissed the place off in 38 words. Or was Kane keeping it to himself makes sense. Because Salvador Dali painted in cad ques was born nearby in Figuera died nearby at port Ligat and built a museum in Figueras. And artists do not choose to live and create in unpleasant surroundings. Picasso and Miro often kept Dali company. They also worked in cad ques. Neither with the possible exception of Picasso and his screaming portrait of Guernica is remembered for painting ugly towns. So last Spring we decided to Cap Spain with cad ques. Spain a even with the peseta up 10 percent against the dismal Dollar in the past year a remains one of Europe s More affordable destinations. Especially in the off season. In fall or Spring two Star tourists can still find hotels where a comfortable night for two costs less than $60. Dining a if the preference be Paella Perdiz Partridg Lengu ado sole or other regional passions a is no More expensive than eating Good family thai mexican or italian in the United states. And Auto rentals probably Are cheaper than any spot in the world. Hertz As part of its off season Quot world on wheels Quot program this fall is renting econ boxes with Advance reservation and payment requirements for $182 a week. This includes unlimited mileage and insurance. So we picked up our Hert Mobile politely upgraded owing to a reservations glitch at the Madrid Airport and drove Forth to attach substance to windmills and realize our castles in Spain. Madrid. The Olive Anchovy squid and pickled Pepper tapas remain the Best reason beyond Spanish Sherry for bar hopping the 17th-Century Plaza mayor. Then to Botin s for sangria and a suckling pig supper to join the 29 million tourists who have followed Hemingway there. Tomorrow in Daylight will do Well enough for the Royal Palace Flea markets and the Prado a and wincing at Picasso s powerful Guernica. Toledo. The moors made it of tall Flat faced buildings without windows and cobbled alleys serving As main Street and their twisting towering medieval town became a National Monument. The Rich clash of Toledo steel has been heard worldwide for centuries the Industry continues and is fronted by a thousand souvenir shops Selling Fine Blades. Granada. Forward to the perfectly preserved past of Andalusia and arabian nights a All inside the turreted Walls of the Alhambra where caliphs and Kings gathered their villages loves lives and history. Only silent now. Valencia. The world s finest Paella is made with snails string Beans and artichokes and can be ordered at Alcazar at no. 12, Calle Mosen Fernades. But first because you will have difficulty walking after such a meal visit Museo Nacional de Ceramic and several 8 stripes Magazine october 4, 1990