European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - October 04, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Hidden among the Small harbours and isolated capes of Northeast Spain cad ques has largely escaped the ravages of Progress. . Times incredible centuries of magnificent Spanish ceramics. Barcelona. Picasso s Hometown from the age of 14, now the City of his museum. It is a 1,000-item collection to broaden those who have never seen Picasso As an engraver Ceramic St textile designer and Painter of still life. And then came cad ques. It did not come easily. Although Well established since the 50s As a Colony for painters writers thinkers players of obscure musical instruments and tourists anxious to Potter among cult lists cad ques has remained modestly Remote by retaining its inaccessibility. Twenty five Miles South of the French Border Well hidden among the forgotten harbours and unknown capes of Northeast Spain the Village is about 80 years off the beaten path. Cruise boats cannot Dock there. There is no Airport. The closest Railroad station is 20 Miles West. The Only Way in is via a 15-mile rally course across a Sierra requiring equal doses of courage and dramamine. Up among Almond Groves. Down through Olive Trees. But also around some of the prettiest coastal scenery of the vaunted Costa brava. But As the Road wriggles and descends towards the coast cad ques appears and nothing should be this cute. Its Little Homes Are whitewashed and lean against each other for Comfort. Rooftops Are Blue slate or Reddish tile and the materials Are local. There Are 1,100 people living in town and at any one time you might see nine of them. It is the Carmel of the Costa brava and Spain s answer to St. Tropez and a Superb argument for Early retirement. Unless you Are in search of a Hostel there really Are Only two hotels in cad ques. The rest Are at least a Kilometre or three away from the coast. At these off season prices we can afford much better. So there s hotel Lane Petit a cozy moderate and two storied on its own Beach. Depending on the Dollar you will pay about $55 a night for two at the pleasant Petit. Or there is the Playa sol. It is three Star a definite breach of our travelling practice but we relented because of the hotel. It s on a Small Beach and a tiny Bay. Our room was on the third floor Complete with French doors and a veranda fully facing one of the better seascapes in cad ques. We happily paid what now would be about $75 a night for two. There is nothing to do in cad ques. Thank heavens. No Casino. No Large restaurants. No Brazen boutiques. No real souvenirs beyond the absolute treasures of tiny handicrafts local ceramics and Tripico Fisherman s sweaters. There is sailing sunning and diving of course. But to find the lonelier beaches of Cape Cross you must walk Headland trails. There is a 16th-Century Church rising above the Village but it has Little regional significance. And therein is the drug of cad ques. It is one of the world s dwindling number of genuine getaways that easily admit a visitor to a Friendly Community. It takes Only one Early breakfast at bar Meliton before the waiter is setting up a chocolate croissant and cafe con Neche As you arrive for breakfast the second morning. And the invitations from waitresses hotel clerks and the woman in the sailing and dive shop Are quite sincere. There is to be a baking contest in the Community Hall and everybody in the Village will come to judge the dishes and Sample the winners and losers. In the Square there will be a festival where men buy roses for their ladies and ladies must buy a Book for their men. Come cheer for cad ques against Vilaj Uiga for the Junior soccer championship. And to end this local Celebration of St. George there will be musicians dancers and singers and a party for the children. While a dozen Cooks use oars to stir a monster Paella that will feed everyone who comes. Dali of course cannot be ignored in cad ques. His Home stands and May be visited but not entered. The Little bars where he drank and held audiences and listened to flamenco guitarists Are Well marked by photographs of the visit. But his entire presence can be found Back across the Sierra in Figueras and the Dali museum. It is a ludicrous amusing annoying charming tormented and Genius filled Temple that sucks you into Dali s games. Look through this Lens in one room. What actually is a sofa designed by Dali creates an image of Mae West s lips. Press this Button. It Rains inside a Cadillac mounted beneath a Rowboat and the water sprays plants rooting in a mannequin s Lap. In the evening breezes Are from the Bay and they Are Chilly enough for that new Fisherman s sweater. A Dubonnet Tor two at the first waterfront bar to be found warms the moment. Then it is a traditionally late night dinner at Don quijote where the menu Del Dia special of the Day is sole sauteed in White wine garlic and butter. It is probably the Best sole this Side of Dover. Soon it is Way past Midnight and there is nobody on the streets. Beaches Are dark the Harbor still. There is just one noise. An old Donkey engine fires As one old Fisherman s Day begins and Antonio again Heads out to sea. As cad ques sleeps. October 4, 1990 stripes Magazine 9