European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - October 18, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Belvedere Palace is a baroque Delight representing the pomp and splendor of the austrian Empire at the height of its  like a King or Queen by James t. Yenckel Washington Post How grand to have been born a King or Queen a at least the happily Ever after kind. Perhaps i be overdosed on historical novels but this is  my Quirky daydreams. And in elegant Vienna the most regal of Europe s capitals it s wonderfully easy to imagine you hold claim to a Rich and spend Ferous throne. London Stockholm Copenhagen and Madrid May All have crowned monarchs in residence but As cities they Are solidly Middle class. No ruler sits today on Vienna s once Imperial throne but the Aura of Empire is draped luxuriously across its ancient precincts like a sumptuous Ermine trimmed Robe. I be sensed the magic on every visit and almost subconsciously i find myself dressing far More formally when i m there a even for a Day of sightseeing. We pretending monarchs i suppose feel obligated to display a Noble image. Beneath the imposing Walls of the Homburg the historic Palace of the hapsburg dynasty you can indulge in pleasures worthy of Royalty. The Empire is gone but its cultural accomplishments remain. I be heard some of the world s finest music at the opera House a gleaming by regal Hall viewed magnificent Art treasures at the National gallery of Art a vast Imperial collection ranking with the very Best of Europe and sampled the elaborate chocolate creations at Demel a surely the finest a and most ornate a pastry shop anywhere. Austrian Beer is great and so is the wine. Of yes i can do All this at Home a but not in the fairy tale setting of old Vienna swept clean and polished As brightly As a Disney kingdom. For Imperial atmosphere horse drawn carriages clip clop Down the City s narrow picturesque streets past the colourful facades of former palaces where Flowers spill from window boxes. Traffic is banned from Many streets adding to the City s quaint Charm. My aristocratic fantasy is realized too in the elegant decor of almost any Public building sparkling chandeliers hang overhead at modest coffeehouses and you sit at Marble tables beside pillars trimmed in Gold Leaf. The viennese themselves Are equally decorative As they throng the Grabe Strasse and Kartne Strasse a the City s most fashionable shopping streets a in neatly tailored attire that would do nicely for an important court function. I have found the viennese unfailingly polite although often rather formal which is entirely appropriate. A certain haughtiness is after All expected when you Are moving in Royal circles. I Don t even mind the occasional snooty waiter or hotel clerk Many of whom can Converse quite fluently in three or four languages a an ability Well beyond me. But formal does t mean staid. Vienna s Street scene is remarkably festive and on any evening Large window shopping crowds gather around Gypsy musicians clowns and other Street performers. On a visit earlier this year 1 was delighted by a sidewalk Organ grinder who was cranking out the favorite Waltz tunes from Vienna s very musical heritage he could have been leftover from the Days of the hapsburgs. Vienna it must be said is an expensive City and the Royal life can be costly if you Are not careful. A few years Back my wife and i reserved seats by mail for two performances at the opera House and sent a Check for $150 to cover what we thought was the full Price. When we showed up at the ticket counter we discovered we had paid for Only the first opera. The clerk told us we owed another $150 for the second opera the next night. But our Money had bought us second Row seats in the orchestra and when the usher continued on Page 4 october 18, 1990 stripes Magazine 3