European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - October 18, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Century Europe. I counted a dozen of his works in the gallery representing almost half of his total surviving output. My favorite is Quot the Hunters in Winter Quot a Lively Village Panorama depicting a group of townsmen returning from a Hunt. One night we took in the opera a performance of Gaetano Donizetti s the elixir of love starring Alfredo Kraus. It was a last minute indulgence and we accepted the Only seats available again at $75 each. But the Price no longer buys seating at the front of the orchestra. We sat in the second of the tiers of boxes that Are stacked grandly one above the other. But it was a Box , which is an enjoyable luxury even when the View is sometimes limited. And then there was that expensive dinner i mentioned. My wife treated it As a birthday present for me. We dined at the Quot Zug Den Drei Husarek Quot a the three Hussars a one of Vienna s finest which was Only a five minute walk from our hotel. She realized it would be pricey but had no idea How much so until she got the Check. The restaurant is divided into several Small rooms each decorated with antique paintings it has the elegance of an Art gallery and the Bustle of an opening reception for a new exhibition. A piano plays in the background. The menu is k la carte and 1 ordered a Small salad of radicchio and endive and an entree of veal medallions in wine sauce with snap peas Cherry tomatoes crusty potato balls and spinach phyllo with Pine nuts. Before they arrived the waiter wheeled up an enormous cart of appetizers and we each took a tiny serving of three. We thought the appetizers were free but they alone totalled $60, As it turned out. My wife did t know How rapidly the Bill was climbing. We chose a bottle of austrian chardonnay and finished with a dessert of White praline mousse. It was ringed with heated slices of Mango and topped with toasted Coconut and Raspberry Puree. I thought it a grand conclusion to a Royal meal and All the More enjoyable because i was t paying. When the Check came my wife calculated schillings into dollars and came up with a total of $225. A trifle to the hapsburgs i would imagine. My wife thought otherwise. Our family budget could tolerate no More of these regal extravagances. Although i was on a Basic expense account indulgences such As my birthday dinner and the opera As Well As my wife s expenses came out of our own pockets. So i woke up to real life and spent the rest of my stay As a commoner might a counting the famous viennese cafe it with Crystal chandeliers Marble tables and scrumptious pastries is a must for every tourist coins and spending them reluctantly. In a Bookstore i picked up a brochure in English called walks through Vienna which describes several half Day rambles through interesting Back streets of old Vienna i might never have discovered on my own. One such walk leads from the Rathaus City Hall past the Beethoven memorial rooms where the composer lived from 1 803 to 1808 around Hoher Markt Vienna s oldest Square through the jewish Quarter where Only one of Vienna s 94 synagogues survived destruction by the nazis and concludes near Griechen be isl a still operating restaurant said to Date Back to the 15th Century. Beethoven who lived in the neighbourhood and Schubert reportedly dined there. We however had already stopped for lunch at the cafe Central a former literary hangout that has recently reopened. Leon Trotsky the russian revolutionist reportedly favored it a varied assortment of historical footsteps wandered Vienna s Imperial streets seated at a doorway table is a life size Wood sculpture of a mustachioed Man who looks As if he might be Trotsky. A red woo Scarf is wrapped around his neck. Imperial in decor the cafe Central features Crystal chandeliers tall pillars Gold trim Marble tables and potted plants. It s a fancy place and always crowded but the prices Are reasonable and the food Hearty and Good. We ordered big bowls of hungarian goulash soup fat frankfurters topped with fresh horseradish a Basket of warm Rolls two tall glasses of Beer and Tea. The Check came to about $30. Another Day we ate lunch at Figl Muller a a popular wine restaurant noted for its schnitzel or so the Guidebook said. We found it Down a hidden passageway on the North Side of St. Stephen s Cathedral about two minutes from our hotel. It was packed and so we asked if we could share a table with a tall Blond woman we assumed was viennese. She was just finishing a dessert and motioned us to sit. When the waitress came she carried no menu but asked simply Quot schnitzel Quot we looked at each other shrugged and nodded  the woman broke out into a wide Grin. Had we blundered i wondered. A Pitcher of wine arrived and soon enough the schnitzel followed. We each were served with a Large plate that literally was covered by the largest pieces of meat i have Ever seen. Thin Lender and nicely breaded the schnitzel lapped Over All sides of the plate. I had to fold mine Back so it would t smear the table we must have looked stunned because our stablemate began to laugh. She was it turned out on business from Finland and she had been As surprised by the meal As we were. Our Check for this very filling lunch came to about $35. On our last night in Vienna neither of us was in any hurry to get Back to the hotel. We did t want our stay in Vienna to end. So we strolled the Square outside the Cathedral and turned Down along . Our path took us along Lovely traffic free promenades that epitomize for me All the positive aspects of Urban life in which Vienna glories a Bright lights inviting cafes interesting shop windows diverse architecture and evening crowds on the streets. If i were King Vienna is the kind of City i would want As my capital. For More information on Vienna Contact the austrian tourist information office 500 fifth ave., 20th floor new York . 10110, 212 944-6800, or any austrian tourist office in Europe. Thanksgiving Vienna Demel s is one of Vienna s most famous cafes. By Marian Hamilton staff writer Amerosa the official travel Agency of the German Bun Desbah offers its special Quot thanksgiving express Quot to Vienna on nov. 21-25 from various cities in Germany. This special Holiday trip was first offered by the German Bun Desbah in 1985 and has remained popular Over the years. In 1989, More than 500 people participated and the same number or More is expected this year. In past years thanksgiving dinners were included. This year tour officials offer a list of restaurants in Vienna that Cater to a variety of tastes. The trip includes travel by special train with sleeping couches and a bar car breakfast aboard the train three overnights with breakfast in viennese hotels a City sightseeing tour transfers from the Vienna train station to hotels and Back baggage service and an English speaking guide. Optional Tours in Vienna Are also available they include a tour of classical Vienna a Palace and Castle tour and a visit to the Vienna Woods. The Cost of the trip will vary according to where you Board the train. Generally however the main package will Cost 474-548 Marks about $316-5365 per adult 372409 Marks about $248-$272 per child under 12 who shares a room with parents and 224-261 Marks about $1 50-si 75 per child under four with his her own berth. The optional tour of classical Vienna and the Palace and Castle Lour each Cost 42 Marks $28. The tour of tire Vienna Woods which includes a hot meal and wine costs 62 Marks $41. Reservation deadline for the Quot thanksgiving express Quot is nov. 9. Space is limited so sign up Early. You should also Reserve the optional Tours at the same Lime. More information and ticket reservations can be obtained at Deutsche Bun Desbah ticket offices Sato of Der travel agencies Rak travel itt Uso and other German travel agencies that handle train trips. You can also Contact Amerosa directly by calling Herr Schwartz at 069-25604241 in Germany. October 18, 1996 stripes Magazine 5