European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - February 28, 1992, Darmstadt, Hesse                                The King of the herbs by Daniel p. Puzo the los Angeles times fresh herbs May have caught Consumers fancy but just a few varieties make up the bulk of All supermarket purchases. By far the most popular fresh Herb is Basil. Quot the demand is greater than our ability to produce  says Frieda Caplan of Frieda s inc. Five types of Basil currently constitute about 50 percent of the los Angeles based company s Herb sales. Caplan believes the popularity of Mediterranean cuisine particularly italian cooking is responsible for the Rise in sales. Mint is Caplanis second Best Selling product in the category with Rosemary and oregano following in that order. Paul Friedman of the Green House in los Angeles says fresh Basil is also his most popular Cut Herb representing about 35 percent of the firm s sales Quot Basil does no to overpower foods and there is virtually nothing that it does t go with Quot he says. Quot you can t rum a meal with too much Basil but you could with say. Too much oregano which is so powerfully  Basil is followed by Dill mint and chives As the bestselling Green House products a recent Survey of Southern California chefs showed that 79 percent used Basil As a regular ingredient in their foods. The chefs also listed thyme Cilantro and Rosemary As other frequently used  recipes from the prosby Rose Dosti the los Angeles times Many restaurant chefs grow their own herbs. Quot it s easy More fun and gives cooking another dimension a says Luciana forge of Malibu Calif s Beau Rivage. Emilio Baglione of Emilio s and George Mahaffey of the hotel Bel air in los Angeles also make fascinating use of the herbs they grow in the gardens at their restaurants. But you done to need to grow your own herbs to develop great recipes Joe Cochran executive chef at Riva restaurant at ther Santa Monica calif., Beach hotel buys his fresh herbs daily. Here is a sampling of the recipes shared with us by chefs. Cochran says herbs fit in perfectly with his concepts of health conscious Low fat Low cholesterol cooking. His Talent for heightening flavor without excess calories is demonstrated in this extraordinary Herb dressing which contains not one drop of fat or cholesterol. Loews Herb dressing 1 cup finely shredded peeled Cucumber 1 cup Balsamic vinegar a cup minced garlic a cup chopped chives v4 cup chopped fresh Dill i cup chopped fresh tarragon 1/4 cup chopped fresh Basil 1/2 cup seeded and diced tomatoes Salt Combine Cucumber vinegar garlic chives Dill tarragon Basil and tomatoes. Season to taste with Salt. Serve with greens. Makes about 21/4 cups or 10 Servings. Each serving contains about 14 calories 33 my sodium 0 cholesterol 0 fat 4 Grams carbohydrates 2 Grams protein 0 fiber 10 percent calories from fat. When the forges opened Beau Rivage in Malibu they immediately put in an Herb Garden. Quot that s the Way we Cook at Home Quot said Luciana a native of Rome. Now the Garden is getting an uplift with a new greenhouse where Basil Marjoram mint and tarragon will be available the year round. Their chef Andreas Kisler author of viennese cuisine Doubleday 1987loves the idea of picking his own herbs such As the Rosemary Sage oregano and Basil used for the Salmon Ravioli dish below. Beau Rivage Salmon Ravioli with Herb Vinaigrette Pound Follot of Salmon crab meat filling flour Oil mushroom Herb Vinaigrette slice Salmon fillet into 4 thin slices. Place 1 slice Salmon on piece of plastic wrap. Cover with another piece of plastic wrap. Pound gently with Flat Side of Mallet or Cleaver and flatten without tearing flesh. Remove top wrap and place it of crab meat filling in Center of fish slice. Fold Salmon Over filling using Bottom plastic Sheet for leverage. With Back Side of knife Pound edges of Salmon slightly. Set aside. Repeat until remaining slices and crab meat filling Are used. Dust Salmon Quot Ravioli Quot lightly with flour. Heat enough Oil to coat Bottom of Skillet. Add Salmon  saute until opaque underneath. Turn and Cook other Side until Salmon is opaque. Arrange Salmon on Platter. Surround with hot mushroom Herb Vinaigrette. Makes 2 Large or 4 medium Servings. Each serving contains about 435 calories 206 my sodium 150 my cholesterol 32 Grams fat 7 Grams carbohydrates 27 Grams protein 1 Gram fiber 67 percent calories from fat. Crab meat filling 1 Large Clove garlic 6 ounces cooked crab meat 1/2 Teaspoon minced fresh oregano 1/2 Teaspoon minced fresh Rosemary a Teaspoon minced fresh Sage i Teaspoon minced fresh Basil 1 egg beaten 2 to 3 Tablespoons heavy whipping Cream 1 Teaspoon red wine vinegar dash Lemon juice roast peeled garlic Clove in oven until Golden Brown. Cool then Mash garlic. Set aside. Press excess moisture from crab meat. Place in mixing bowl and add oregano Rosemary Sage Basil egg whipping Cream vinegar and Lemon juice. Add garlic and mix thoroughly. Mushroom Herb Vinaigrette 3 Tablespoons Oil 3 White mushrooms quartered 2 Shiitake mushrooms quartered 1 cup Enol mushrooms 1 italian Plum Tomato diced 1 Clove garlic minced juice of v4 Lemon 2 Tablespoons Clam juice 2 to 3 Teaspoons red wine vinegar i Teaspoon minced fresh oregano i Teaspoon minced fresh Rosemary i Teaspoon fresh Sage i Teaspoon minced fresh Basil heat Oil in Skillet. Add White mushrooms Shiitake Enoki and Tomato and saut6 until mushrooms Are tender. Add garlic Lemon juice Clam juice vinegar oregano Rosemary Sage and Basil. Heat through. George Mahaffey chef at hotel Bel air makes this elegantly simple preparation. You can even layer the casserole and toss its Topping together several hours in Advance. In that Case however Don t heat and pour in the liquids until just before you put the casserole into the oven to bake making sure to add the Topping Halfway through the baking. Baked Winter Squash with garlic Herb crust 2 me Lubi Acorn Squash is Slid halved seeded and Cut crosswise into i Inch thick slices 2 medium Butternut Squash peeled halved seeded and Cut crosswise into i Inch thick slices 2 medium baking potatoes peeled halved and Cut crosswise into i Inch thick slices 2 medium tomatoes cored and Cut into i Inch thick slices Salt 1 Teaspoon White Pepper i cup Chicken Stock i cup heavy whipping Cream 2 Small cloves garlic finely chopped 1 Teaspoon finely grated fresh horseradish 1 Teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme. Starting and ending with Acorn Squash arrange squashes potatoes and tomatoes in alternating layers in greased 4-quart casserole lightly seasoning to taste each layer with Salt and Pepper. Combine Chicken Stock whipping Cream garlic horseradish and thyme minutes in Saucepan. Bring to boil simmer until reduced by half and pour Over Squash. Cover and bake at 325 degrees 45 minutes to 1 hour. Spread crust evenly Over surface of casserole. Bake uncovered 10 to 15 minutes More. Makes 12 Servings. Each serving contains about 171 calories 180 my sodium 29 my cholesterol 9 Grams fat 20 Grams carbohydrates 4 Grams protein 1 Gram fiber 48 percent calories from fat. Garlic Herb crust 1 i cups fresh bread crumbs a cup grated Parmesan cheese 2 Tablespoons finely chopped Parsley 1 Teaspoon Caraway seeds lightly crushed 1 Tablespoon sesame seeds 2 Teaspoons finely chopped fresh thyme 2 Teaspoons finely chopped chives 1 Teaspoon finely chopped fresh Rosemary 1 Teaspoon finely chopped fresh mint 3 medium cloves garlic finely chopped finely grated zest of 2 Lemons toss together bread crumbs cheese Parsley Caraway seeds sesame seeds thyme chives Rosemary mint garlic and Lemon zest. Baglione owner of Emilio a in Hollywood grows herbs in the Back Patio of his restaurant in pots and available bits of ground. His restaurant can t do without them. A simple Zucchini dish is not Only sprinkled with Olive Oil for its Mediterranean flavor but with several herbs that enhance an otherwise Bland vegetable. Emilio s Zucchini stuffed with herbs 6 8 to 10-Lnch Zucchini chopped fresh Baal leaves chopped fresh Marjoram chopped Parsley chopped fresh mint a Teaspoon grated Nutmeg Salt extra Virgin Olive Oil grated Parmesan cheese slice off ends of Zucchini. Cook in boiling salted water 3 minutes to Blanch. Cut Zucchini in halves Lengthwise. Carefully scoop out seeds. Sprinkle lightly with Basil Marjoram Parsley and mint to taste add Nutmeg and season to taste with Salt. Sprinkle with Olive Oil and Parmesan cheese to taste. Place on greased baking dish bake at 350 degrees 20 to 30 minutes makes 6 Servings Quot a 28, 1992 the stars and stripes a Page 15