European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - May 21, 1992, Darmstadt, Hesse Port gum tourist office the peeling facades and crumbling Walls of the Alfama Haven t completely robbed the old town of its curious Charm behind Lisbon a dirty faces a Michael Abrams the Santa Justa elevator in downtown Lisbon carries pedestrians up some of the City s steeper slopes. By James the Washington Post draped lightly Over the Green Hills above the wide Tagus River Lisbon enjoys the loveliest of natural settings. And As the historic capital of a once great Empire it benefits architecturally from the riches splurged on its palaces and churches. It also turns out to be one of the least expensive capitals of Europe a a third cheaper for example than Madrid the capital of neighbouring Spain. Madrid these Days is Iberia s Urban sophisticate. Though rapidly modernizing Lisbon remains its quiet country Cousin and that is part of its enormous Charm. Granted Lisbon s old neighbourhoods could use a couple of Coats of fresh paint. And the City s famed Black and White mosaic sidewalks Are crumbling and in sad need of repair. But there is something about the old City s genteel Shab Biness that makes it appealing. Right off the main thoroughfares Are Warrens of narrow Hill climbing streets where grocers still display heaps of fresh vegetables at the curb and the family Wash flaps overhead in the Breeze. Little 19th-Century-style trolleys in the City Center seem fittingly old fashioned. Only a few years ago Spain like Portugal was ranked As one of Western Europe s poorest countries. Spain has reaped greater Prosperity in the past decade including its lace lift for this year s expo 02 and the summer olympic s but Portugal s Economy reportedly has been on the upswing with the help of the nation s european Community partners Good Plai e to Start a tour of the City is at Ommerle Square a do cum Ere Kita Plaza ringed u Ith historic buildings on the River s Edge standing in i lie Square bar k to the River it is possible to see the it the same was the cargo ships passing up River have Lur Many years and still do i Iret try ahead is Haifa a dozen intersecting streets on ret Tangular Flat lands at the loot oleic losing Hills t in e one of die Cit s major shopping districts Naixa is m Nisei hat less lash unable these Das although one of the capital s most popular restaurants Gambrilis. Is Tui ind Here Man of the Best shops and popular i Ottoole houses today Are located along spily run t Arrett Whu h links and an enl pret be i ailed in ado just up tin Lull to the Wesl two of Naixa s streets Street of Gold and Street of Silver Are named for the jewelry shops that have lined them for to a Steep Hillside just East of Naixa is the City s oldest neighbourhood known As the Alfama or old Quarter. It is topped by the thick Walls and towers of the ancient Castle of St. George a dramatic landmark from the Middle Ages visible from almost anywhere. Climbing the Hills on the opposite Side of Naixa is Barro Alto another old neighbourhood of narrow winding streets. And to Complete this mental map just North of Naixa the Start of Avenida a Liberdade the Broad tree lined Avenue that cuts through the heart of the City and makes a gradual ascent from Dom Pedro in Square to the huge Green expanse of Eduardo Vii Park and More Hills beyond. All these distinct neighbourhoods Are clustered compactly which makes Lisbon an easy City to get about on foot. If an incline becomes too Steep there is almost always a trolley to get you to the Summit. Actually one of the City s most famous symbols is the Santa Justa elevator an Iron Structure designed by Gustav Eiffel a better known for the Eiffel Tower a that hoists pedestrians High up the Cliffside from Street of Gold to the Chiado. A nearby Cable car also makes the ascent. The route to the Castle of St. George ascends through the Labyrinthine Alfama along cobbled passageways so narrow that in places two people cannot walk Side by Side. Tiny shops barely closets Cut into the Wall sell wine soap and the other everyday goods and services of a residential neighbourhood. Potted geraniums and other Flowers Bloom on balconies above and in Many colourful Atu Fecjo tiles introduced to Portugal by the moors Are found throughout Lisbon. 85 i 8 stripes Nta Garine May 21, t99j
