European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - February 27, 1993, Darmstadt, Hesse                                For Etc it Home front or a enjoying the dutch love affair with indonesian a cuisine by Rosemary Sawyer Brussels Bureau indonesian restaurants Are As common in the Netherlands As Steak houses Are in the United states. In nearly every dutch town you la find at least one indonesian eatery a legacy of the islands having been dutch territory until 1949. These plentiful restaurants with their dishes made from such ingredients As coconuts peanuts and coriander offer a flavorful alternative to dutch cuisine with its cheese and potato emphasis. Another drawing card for the ethnic restaurants is the so called Rice tables. The samplers of food prepared for two or More guests provide As much variety As a Church pot Luck. The mix of 10 or More entrees and Side dishes make a perfect selection for diners new to indonesian fare or those who just hate to make decisions. Prices at indonesian restaurants Are comparable to those in their chinese counterparts. A 19-item Rice table at the Mari Baya restaurant in the Hague costs 85 guilders about $47 for two. The indonesian style smorgasbord got its Start aboard dutch ships said Badar Qadri owner of the Mari Baya. Seafaring Cooks began the custom of serving a wide variety of meats and vegetables to officers every wednesday he said. While the ready to order Rice table is commonplace in the Netherlands it won t be found on any of Indonesia s More than 13,000 islands Qadri said. Likewise indonesians who visit his restaurant always order a la carte creating their own Rice tables. This phenomenon is linked to language As much As culture. Even the most cosmopolitan restaurant diners will have a hard time deciphering the names of indonesian dishes such As Tacang coring Rujak Manis and Emping Minjo. Qadri said he used to provide an English menu but abandoned the practice when guests made a mockery of his sometimes too literal translations. People often incorrectly compare indonesian food to Indian food with its curries. A better comparison Qadri said is with the cuisine of Thailand. However indonesian food varies widely by Region. Quot in America a a amps do Cuey dutch restaurateur Badar Qadri says Good indonesian cooking does t come from cookbooks. It s passed Down from one generation to the next. Hamburger tastes the same in Florida As it does in Washington. Not so in Indonesia Quot Qadri said. Indonesian food prepared in West Java or Sumatra is very hot and spicy Qadri said. Most restaurants in Europe prepare their food celebes style which is slightly spicy. From its Harbor location at or. Lely Kade 17, the Mari Baya restaurant serves food As it is prepared on the Island of Bandung. Although Bandung style dishes Are mild Qadri also offers a special hot and spicy Rice table. The computer logistics manager turned restaurateur scoffed at indonesian cookbooks. Quot i Don t believe All those books and the people who write them Quot he said. The True recipes Are Quot passed from father to son and Mother to  Quot you can t go to any school to learn this cooking you have to have a feeling for it. A feeling and a cod Given gift Quot said Qadri who was born in Singapore but grew up in Indonesia. Nevertheless Qadri offered a few general rules for the non gifted who attempt indonesian cooking at Home. First vegetables should be served cold. Quot if you keep them on the fire they re gone gone with the  Rice and meat must be served hot. Meats Are prepared a Day in Advance then refrigerated to it the spices work through them. If meats Are served the same Day they re prepared they re Quot not  Qadri hires an indonesian woman to Cook in his restaurant but said he occasionally experiments in the Kitchen on sundays. One resulting roast Chicken dish a Ajam Pahang a has become a Standard appetizer with All the Rice tables. A amps Dave Casey Edwin Zuid Hoorn and Monique Eckardt share a Rice table at Mariu Baya  Ajam Panang is a roast Chicken appetizer created by restaurant owner Badar Qadri. Ajam Panano 5 to 10 pieces Chicken a cup vegetable Oil 4 cupe medium toy sauce Freeh coriander Leavea dry mint Leavea dried Fried Olona Salt and Pepper bring Oil soy sauce and if desired Salt and Pepper to a boil in a deep pan. Add the Chicken and Cook on medium heat until the Chicken is soft. Remove Chicken from pan and Sprinkle with mint leaves and coriander. Serve immediately topped with Crunchy Fried onions or refrigerate overnight. If refrigerated the next Day pour a Little soy sauce Over Chicken warm it in the microwave top with Fried onions and serve. To create your own mini Rice table Ajam Panang can be served with indonesian Fried Rice called Nasi Goring and indonesian beef. The following recipes were taken from Betty crockery a new International Cookbook and Louise Steele s Book of hot and  Goring 2 medium onions chopped 3 Tablespoons vegetable Oil 4 cups cooked Rice 1 cup finely chopped cooked smoked Ham 2 Teaspoons Curry powder a Teaspoon ground coriander a Teaspoon ground cumin v4 Teaspoon Salt 1 can 5 ounces tiny shrimp drained 2 Tablespoons snipped Parsley Cook and stir onions in Oil in 12-Inch Skillet until tender. Add Rice Ham Curry powder coriander cumin and Salt. Cook and stir until Rice is Goiden Brown 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in shrimp and Parsley. Cover and Cook 1 minute. Serves  beef 1 v4 pounds topside of beef Cut into slices 3 Tablespoons Corn Oil 1 Large Spanish onion sliced 1 Clove garlic crushed 1 Teaspoon ground Ginger 1 Teaspoon ground cumin 1 Teaspoon ground coriander 1 Teaspoon chill seasoning is cup desiccated Coconut 2 Teaspoons Light soft Brown sugar 1 Tablespoon Lemon juice 1 a a cups beef Stock slivers of red Pepper Capsicum Green Chilli and Small onion rings. Cut slices of topside into Winch thick strips. Heat Oil in a Saucepan. Add onion and garlic and Fry gently until soft. Add meat and Fry stirring until browned All Over. Add spices to pan and Cook for 2 minutes add remaining ingredients except Garnish and stir Well. Simmer gently uncovered for 30-35 minutes stirring occasionally until mixture is thickened and dry. Stir mixture More frequently toward the end of cooking time to prevent sticking. Serve hot garnished liberally with peppers chilis and onions. Serves  Rosemary Sawyer saturday february 27, 1993 the stars and strikes