European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - June 2, 1994, Darmstadt, Hesse D a a it a a a a a a it a a. Is amp a a it Quot a a by Fiji a a a 4�. A 24-hour guide to Dublin by Mary Dowey London observer service. Every june several Hundred literary Camp followers. Rush la define Dublin s contours using the most exhaustive and exhausting 2-1 hour City guide. They travel in the Early morning out to Sand Cove. Sparkling on a knuckle of Dublin Bay then Back across the City to particular pubs a National landmark or two May be even c1 a Nevin cemetery. On june 1 6 a a doomsday James Joyce s Ulysses is the ultimate Dublin handbook. Edwardian dress is not obligatory by the annual Celebration of Leopold Bloom s Odyssey through the City on june 16, 1904,. But it is encouraged. Quot bring your Straw boaters your parasols and watch chains your imagination Quot exhort the organizers a particularly your imagination. In 90 years whole chunks of Joyce s Dublin have died. In their place Are video shops vast office blocks the Tough suburbs of Roddy Doyle s commitments and Paddy Cwirko his i i. There Are also stylish Olive Oil drizzling restaurants Brilliant architectural restorations and possibly More Rock musician Wanna lies than yuppies. Clusters of negatives and positives. New Energy. And yet in the most Signil Cunt ways the City remains the same. It b perfectly positioned a Lucky Urban Horseshoe turned toward the sea with the Dublin and Vic know. Mountains As shelter and escape. The River Liffey has. Fine quays dominated by James Gandon s four courts and newly Pristine custom House a reminders that this is a still at heart a georgian City of monumental Cut Stone Public buildings and tall Brick town houses. If some of its features have been disfigured by neglect there is determination now to save what is left and administer a deep cleansing facial. Dublin is sophisticated and cosmopolitan like any european capital. The Brand new International financial services Centre All curves arid sexy Green Glass is the. Nucleus of an ambitious dockland redevelopment scheme. Grafton Street Sells clothes by Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren As Well As Hong Kong born Dubliner John Rocha currently British designer of the year. You can eat in a big Chicago pizza pie factory and listen to celtic Rock in a Mammoth Virgin Mega store because Dublin is packed with Young people a half a million of them hair the population is under 25, in other ways it is Coily old fashioned. Sacks of Coal and Small hordes of scrap Metal Are still occasionally transported by threadbare horse and cart along streets that remain cobbled. Opposite Trinity College you cars step Back 80 years and buy fresh yeast across the antiquated counter of the Irish yeast co on a Calm Day the warm yeasty smell of guinness Drifting out from the brewery still perfumes the whole City but the essence of the place has Little to do with sights or smelly or even guinness. Somebody once said Dublin is not so much a City As a state of mind. The Dubliner s state of mind 1 presume he meant jocular irreverent Nosy rapier Sharp at puncturing egos. Joyce and Sean o Casey and Flann o Brien knew All about it a the Way that native dubs in Idle conversation forge the City s character. It would not be famous for its writers if it weren t for its talkers in what is. Pritchett has described As Quot the most instantly talkative City in Europe Quot verbal virtuosity is valued above All else. It is practice in shops and offices and polished in pubs until it shines. Visitors drink it in aghast sometimes that slander and blasphemy should be mixed so liberally w Ith dazzling metaphor but unable to Slop listening. Quot in t conversation a wonderful thing All the same Quot i recently overheard one inebriated customer pronounce in slightly slurred tones to another Quot we be talked about everything tonight from immortality to nuclear that is Why i like Dublin so Day dubliners and visitors alike celebrate june 16 by visiting some of the places described in Joyce suly it set the Day starts Early with traditional blooms Day breakfast served from 6 . At the South Bank restaurant in Sand Cove booking essential 353 1/2808788. Then readings and other diversions at the Joyce Tower Tram 8 . From Here most enthusiasts make their own itineraries a mix of scheduled and Impromptu events. Details from Joyce Tower 353 1/280-9265. 6 stripes Njg Jotine Une 2, 1994
