European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - June 2, 1994, Darmstadt, Hesse                                0 a. Amp f i everything you need to know if you go to Dublin e Sis Dave Didio of. Patrick s Cathedral has a spectacular Interior to match its exterior. Jonathan Swift is buried there. Continued from Page 7 exhibitions Are generally worthwhile. Admission free. Open tuesday saturday 10 ,-5.30 . Sunday 12 .-5.30 . A guinness brewery. God be with the Days when visitors to Dublin and half the resident student population left the largest brewery in Europe legless after free samples of triple strength Export guinness. The guided tour has Long since been replaced by a permanent exhibition in the converted hop store and you buy your own refreshment. Interesting if not exactly intoxicating. Admission $2.90. Open monday Friday 10 .-4 . A Temple bar. It has been called Dublin s new left Bank a a Liberno latin Quarter on the South Side of the River Liffey where ethnic restaurants and Funky shops Are opening As fast As old cobblestones Are repaid on the streets. The claims May be a Little overstretched since work is still in Progress but it does have a terrific Buzz. A drama. The theater is still a crucial part of Dublin cultural life and Well Worth sampling. The Abbey founded by Yeats lady Gregory and Edward Martyn concentrates on Irish playwrights. The Gate currently has the  for the most dynamic productions and a sumptuous Interior. The Olympia gaiety and project Are Worth checking out too. A the National museum the museum houses the finest collection of Bronze age Gold artefacts in Europe a Beautiful collars bracelets earrings and other precursors of creative modern Irish jewelry a of Well As Superb Early Christian treasures such As the Ardagh chalice. Open tuesday saturday 10 .-5 ., sunday 2 .-5 . Where to shop there Are two main shopping areas separated by the River a Grafton Street on the South o Connell and Henry streets on the North. Grafton Street was once grand o Connell Street More plebeian but the Blunt truth is that both Are now lined with the sort of Chain stores you find in any big City. Brown Thomas in Grafton Street is the last bastion of elegance a but Only just. The surrounding streets Are More promising Irish craftwork both traditional and modern is outstanding. See a wide Range in the Kilkenny shop 6 Nassau St., and the Tower design Centre Pearse Street where a Range of Craft workers have their studios the he gallery in the Power court town House Centre has exquisite one of a kinds. For Superb jewelry try design Yard 12 East Essex St., and the collective also in Power court. Irish fashion is also on a High. British designer of the year John Rocha has been based in Dublin for most of his working life and through some kind Cut of Fate his clothes both male and female Are infinitely cheaper in tire a Wear stores in Ireland than they Are in Britain. Look out also in Brown Thomas for Paul Costelloe lire Irish designer beloved of Princess i where to eat not so very Long ago Dublin eating was polarized. Between pretentious expense account restaurants and depressing repositories of grisly Steak and watery salad. Smart bistros have arrived to fill the yawning void and Are conveniently sprinkled All Over the place. Prices Here Are approximate a for two courses at least per head Basic House wine is included in dinner Price calculations. A Cooke s cafe 14 South William St. G1-679-0536. First of the Sassy newcomers with food to suit sophisticated clientele Many of whom like to sit spot lit at window tables. Don t forgo the Home baked Mediterranean breads a so popular that Cooke s also runs a thriving bakery business with a Dawson Street shop. Booking essential. Lunch set menu $-18,78 dinner including wine about $43.50,. A roly s Bistro 7 balls Ridge Terrace 01-6 >8-261 biggest and Buzz Iest of the bistros. A Short taxi ride out of the City Center but Worth it for interesting food e.g., terrine of Pigeon and Chicken Black pudding on a bed of lentils with Madeira sauce at very fair prices. Well. Known Dublin chef Colin o Daly changes the menu All the time. The wine is also a bargain by Dublin standards always Busy especially at night so Book lunch menu. $13.78 dinner including wine about $33.35. A the Tea room Clarence hotel Wellington Quay 01-677-6178. A real Misnomer Tea pales in comparison with lunch or dinner in the newly converted Art Nouveau style ballroom of the hotel that the band u2 has taken Over. Adventurous and accomplished modern cooking try the thai soup Orco fit of Salmon with baby spinach and red Pepper sauce. Set lunch $13.78 for two courses $18,13 for three dinner including wine under $44. A a a Quot a Senor Cassis 146 upper Leeson St. 01-668-4544. New wave Mediterranean cooking a i.e., plenty of fashionable Parmesan flakes Mozzarella Char grilled vegetables a but there is couscous and Paella too. Pleasantly humming atmosphere 15 minutes walk from St. Stephen s Green. Lunch tuesday Friday Only. Set menu $13.78 dinner including wine about $36. A Fitzer s cafe 51 Dawson St. 01-677-115524 upper Baggot St. 01-660-0644. Two very popular locations for relaxed eating in smart but unpretentious surroundings. International menu with cajun and Pacific rim flavors american style burgers and sandwiches too. Very reasonable wine list. Lunch about $14.50 dinner including wine under $29. A elephant and Castle 18 Temple bar 01 -679-3121. Casual american the other two branches Are in Manhattan. One of the first restaurants to open in Dublin s arty Quarter and still reliable flattery and fun. Starters big enough to share spectacularly calorific sundaes. Same menu All Day under $29, including wine. A Tosca 20 Suffolk St. 01-679-6744. Another taste of u2 this time it s Bono s brother who s the owner. Sleek modernity combined with quite Good pizza pasta and the Best lunch Sandwich in town feta Tomato and olives piled Between warm italian bread doused in Olive Oil for $3.63. Lunch about $8.70 dinner including wine $24.65. A Bewley a 78 Grafton St 01-677-6761 and branches. A Dublin institution for close on 100 years. Essentially an old style Coffee shop As the Aroma floats out into Crafton Street the customers Drift in. Good at any time of Day for Light meats or just Coffee and a Bun. Sit on the Mezzanine and look Down. B breakfast from $3.55 other meals equally Good value. A Davy Byrne s,-21 Duke St. 01-677-5217. Written into James Joyce s Ulysses and thus the place to lunch on blooms Day. A Gorgonzola Sandwich and a Glass of Burgundy As enjoyed by Leopold Bloom will Cost about $6.53. A 101 Talbot upstairs at 100-102 Talbot St. 01 -8745011. An Oasis of Enterprise in the Uchic end of town just off o Connell Street. Audacious cooking at reasonable prices in Cool modern Interior. Particularly imaginative vegetarian dishes e.g., beetroot Leek and Goat s cheese phyllo parcels. La nth about $9.43 dinner including wine about $21.75. A chomps Power court town House Centre 01679-4552. Self service american style Deli with great bagels jewish Chicken soup overstuffed sandwiches killer cakes unlimited Coffee. Some regulars come five Days a week. Breakfast about $5.80 lunch $8.70, where to drink Dublin pubs Are not Mere drinking establishments they Are Bolt anoles from mundane Ness Heaters for endless talk some of which concerns the condition of the pint. Guinness brewed at St James s Cate above the River Liffey is still the Dublin drink outselling pints of everything else by 9-to-l. Aficionados claim it tastes better Here than anywhere else on Earth after a certain amount has been consumed they will also tend to pronounce that the pubs Are the Best in the world too. There Are three approximate classifications cosy victorian musically challenging and modern trendy. Opening hours monday saturday in summer 10 30 .-11 30 . In Winter 10 30 .-l 1 ., and on sunday 12 30 .-2 . And 4 .-l 1 . 8 stripes Magazine june 2, 1994