European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - June 2, 1994, Darmstadt, Hesse A or f or a Quot a of v s. I i a a v. A a a if of Al h1 a f j t a a re i rid a amp ssh Wosz a v w a a a i 4 a it a i in nov x x to amp a v i r i a a \ cd in v it m. V v Quot a / Emmit Himi. Tie View from the Heidelberg Castle takes in the City Center the old Bridge and the Neckar. Mark Twain left Impact on German Community right the Gate to the old Bridge As seen looking Down Steingasse. Above a statue of a Knight guards one of the Castle entrances. Is amps photos by Michael Abrams 10 stripes Magazine june 2, js94 by Theresa Bujnoch the year was 1 878. A popular american writer became disillusioned with the United states and himself. His latest Book sales disappointing an attempt at play righting a Flop he chose to return to Europe where writing had once come easily and brought so much Success. He wrote in a notebook Quot to go abroad has something of the same sense that death brings a 1 Arp no longer of yes what be say of me now is of no for Samuel Langhorne Clemens a better in Whas Mark Twain a this would be a second Joule it abroad. The first 11 years earlier resulted in a novel that brought him International Fame. In the innocents abr6adtwa\n delivered a travel tour of Europe filled with satirical observations of european culture. Now Twain was becoming disappointed at the excesses of America and Germany s order and tradition seemed to Beckon. Twain wrote to his Mother about his plans Quot to take my tribe and Fly to some Little Corner of Europe and Budge no More until i shall have completed one of the half dozen books that lie begun the Schloss hotel on May 6, 1878, Twain and his wife Tivy along with their two children a Suzy and Clara a arrived in Heidelberg. For $250 a month they rented a suite in the Schloss hotel which overlooked Heidelberg Castle and the Neckar Valley. The hotel was no stranger to celebrities. The year before the composer Richard Wagner had stayed there a As had Ulysses s. Grant. Twain took an instant liking to the place. He compared the rooms enclosed balconies to Bird cages and described the View from his Quot Cage Quot of the Neckar Gorge to be Quot one of the loveliest that can be Heidelberg Castle Twain took an immediate and lasting interest in the Heidelberg Castle. Its grounds Lay a Short stroll away from the Schloss hotel. Quot Heidelberg Castle must have been very Beautiful before the French battered and bruised and scorched it two Hundred years ago. The Stone is Brown with a pinkish tint and does not seem to stain easily Quot he wrote. Twain also enjoyed the Castle illumination which he described As being much As it remains today a crowded and spectacular Quot with a perfectly breathtaking suddenness several vast sheaves of Varico lored rockets were vomited skyward out of the Black throats of the Castle towers. And instantly every detail of the prodigious ruin stood revealed against the Mountainside and glowing with an almost intolerable splendor of fire and . Student life in Heidelberg Twain already a Well known writer in Europe As Well As in America was often sought out by the Anglo american club at Heidelberg University which included 55 american and British students at the time. The 42-year-old writer apparently spent a lot of time among the Young people of the University town Quot one sees so Many students abroad at All hours hat he presently begins to wonder if they Ever have any working hours Quot wrote Twain. Vet his the German education system was also reflected in his writing Quot it is said that when a Pupil leaves the gymnasium High school he not Only has a comprehensive education but he knows what he knows a it is not be fogged with uncertainty it is Burnt into him so that it will Twain even visited the student prison at the University. Until 1914 students were incarcerated there because tradition dictated they could t be sent to the Public jail. The students could go to prison on their own Accord when their schedules allowed and could also receive guests. So Twain asked a Young american Friend facing a sentence to serve his jail time As soon As possible so he could get a look inside. Twain copied Down Many of the writings scribbled on the Walls and carved into the tables by disgruntled students. Some of these Are found in his notebooks. He claimed he also tried to buy one of the worn Oak tables used by the students. Twain was also fascinated Fly the student corps or fraternities of the Day. Each wore a particular coloured Cap that identified his corp Quot the Young gentlemen neither bowed to nor talked to students whose Caps differed in color from their own. A it
