European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - January 5, 1995, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Cou Mayeu ambit car carries skiers to the slopes at  guide to the three cos of italian skiing _ by Nigel Lloyd London observer service Quot wealthy romans and venetians flock to Cortina in the dolomites. The evening Parade Down the Pedestrianised main Street the Corso italia is a sight for the fashion _ conscious As Long As you re not put off by real fur. Coats. A the ski slopes have a lot going for them too. They re Seldom crowded and if conditions Are poor in one area another will usually compensate. The Nursery slopes Are excellent intermediates Are Well catered for while better skiers can enjoy steeper chutes almost undisturbed. There Are two main skiing regions Tofania and Valoria. Shuttle buses run to both and the three stage Quot Arrow in the sky Quot Cable car goes up Tofania. There s also plenty of intermediate skiing on the neighbouring Omedes slopes at the other end of town a Cable car whisks you up to the mainly intermediate Valoria slopes. You can also ski Down tree lined runs to Rio Gere and from there go by chairlift to son Forca or further up the Cristallo slopes to Sta unies. From this Point there is a very Steep narrow Black Chute Back. A. There is a  of Mountain restaurants a the smartest being Al Caminetz a but the evenings Are the High spot of Cortina s social life. People get moving around 7 . With the passe Ata Down the Corso. Drinks and dinner Are followed by More drinks and dancing Well into the Small hours. Try Orange and the piano 13.irboth can be fun As r an in area and limbo  Are some Excel Lent hotels not  Posta where it s easy to spend a lot of Money but there Art also Many More economical establishments. A Cou Mayeur in the Valle d Costa is perhaps belter. Known to  skiers its setting at tin.1 Mouth of the a Mont Blanc Tunnel Means it s Only a couple of hours drive from the Geneva Airport. Cou Mayeur retains its age old Mountain exclusivity with a pleasant traffic free Center bursting with boutiques bars cafes and an interesting Market. A a a a. The skiing is divided into two areas both a ii Lyle out of town. The main Chc Trouit Val Veny ski grounds Are reached by Cable car and Are Ideal for intermediates. This is a heavy snowfall area but As Many italians seem to prefer sticking to the pistes there Are often pleasant surprises for those who want to take to the powder. On my last visit i headed off from a piste and soon found myself toppling gently Over into at least three feet of overnight powder a not something intermediates often have the Opportunity to enjoy. Skiing for beginners is More limited but they like everybody else can enjoy the numerous Mountain restaurants where simple italian  the order of the Day. A v a Cou Mayeur s other ski area la Pallu Grant is served by a rather old three Section it Able Way up to Purita i a Bonner. From Here confident intermediates a n set if i to to. I i he of i Mous Valle e Bla in he1 to Sambhi a. A trance from where you can take a bus bark or if you wish really to test yourself  cd oven the Toula a Glacier on the italian Side of Mont Blanc. Neither of these routes should be done without a guide. After the ski lifts have closed for the it Lay the narrow. A t cobbled streets of Cou Mayeur. Come alive. Good bars include the Roma american Posta and Ziggy s. Skip Mountain lunch one Day and Dine on the fixed Price. 7 banquet of .12 courses at  ill Poat a _ of treves. J. If Cou Mayeur has. Mont Lilar tin highest Pcek in the Alps Cervin id has the matterhorn the most famous. Its Stark triangular Granite Massif As seen from tie italian resort seems quite different from the brooding presence that dominates Zermatt on the Swiss Side _ the Large ski grounds Are in one area and Well adapted for All skies. Even beginners can quit Kly gel to Tolfe Nursery runs Cerdinia has smart ened up its act arid much improved its previously dated lift system. Now Uphill t transport is almost us much fun As the downhill skiing on its vast sunny ski grounds. For a supplement you can ski Over to , Tipiere s also a Ortii e run flown to. Valour Ninche. L this May not be one of the prettiest skin villages but it Quot. T a plainly is one of the liveliest for acres ski drinks try the. Dragon bar or whimper. There s a Good it Hoice of restaurants  guaranteed Good tune later at a., him Are b j2,  Tana or blow up. Distal Buflod by Scripp him Ned news service 4 stripes Magazine