European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - January 5, 1995, Darmstadt, Hesse                                First israelis find two Jordans one welcoming other foreboding across die holy land continued from Page 15 _ _ in Jordan unlike their counterparts in Israel who Are considered a hindrance to Progress. From Petra we drove South to the Culf of Aqaba and stopped alongside a Field in which two bedouin women were weaving a carpet outside their tent. Nothing special the carpet just a rough Black strip for their roof. They served us Tea. We Saton our haunches laughing. Forme a desert rat the brutal Sahara arabian zones make the entire trip worthwhile. Hunkered Down in some riverbed Quot Wadi Quot with the lichens and Wormwood and fringe toed lizards i Felt like a sixth Century . Local happily baked in the Sun. But the new peace is Best seen on the Gulf of Aqaba a Turquoise Finger of aquarium water that pushed Inland from the red sea. Four countries Jostle each other for a piece of the Shore and the Leisure crowd and Osama a jordanian scuba diving instructor once had to to take care in tooling around where the Border separating Israel from its Arab neighbors was not so obvious. Quot there used to be coast guard Here coast Cuard there. But not anymore Quot Osama said one afternoon As we sped Back from a 75-foot dive not far from the saudi Border. The town of Aqaba is the Plain sister. Reserved without makeup where women Are known to Bathe in the sea in full dress and traditions die hard. Its israeli counterpart Eilat is taller with discos posh hotels and the occasional topless bather on the Beach. They Are something like fire Island to Atlantic City except that their people used to Point guns at each other across the Araba River that runs Down from the dead sea. 1. A r a. /. Quot a a .7 despite the barbed wire and guard towers it was just. 87 Steps through the no Man s land of the new crossing. For us there were smiles on both sides _ _. _ a a a a a a Ltd a a. A a a a i a for a amps James Hudson Moore the Frankfurter cafe in Aqaba Jordan caters to the International crowd. _. The first group of israeli tourists travelled openly in Jordan in november As a result of the new treaty Between Israel and Jordan. An associated press reporter accompanied  Dan Perry the associated press  Huguette Elhaddad broke away from her tour group to stroll through the ancient Nabataean City of Petra previously off limits to her As an israeli. Suddenly she shuddered feeling a Jerk on her Arm. Instinctively Elhaddad feared an attacker she said later. Instead it was a smiling bedouin girl who reached up to stroke Elhaddad s Blond hair. The girl s Robed Mother Yamina gripped the israeli woman wearing yellow stretch tights in a passionate embrace of peace. Quot it was my greatest moment Quot said Elhaddad who spoke to the woman in English and broken arabic. Quot we discussed our families How As mothers we Are the happiest about peace. But still i never mentioned my son is a  world away from the speeches and pomp that have characterized israeli jordanian peacemaking the moment summed up the Welcome and foreboding Felt this past week by the first israeli tourists in Jordan since the countries signed a peace treaty oct. 26. It was Israel s first full peace with an Arab country since its treaty with Egypt in 1979. There was elation at being Able to simply drive into the country with which israelis share their longest Border and some Surprise at the warmth of jordanians in the Southern area around Petra the focus of the tour. Quot it s wonderful. It makes us feel like Normal people no longer hemmed in by Borders Quot said Ludmilla Tichon. But the experimental nature of the peace was evident. As the group passed through the Wadi Al Tarabah Border crossing into Jordan a three car police escort pulled in behind and at least three soldiers or police officers stood at every intersection along the bus route. In the capital Amman where the vast majority of the City s 1.2 million residents Are of palestinian origin another group of far More nervous israelis travelled with foreign passports. The group s Leader Haim Baida told them to avoid. Speaking hebrew and introducing themselves As israelis. His jordanian aide Nobar Shu quran insisted the precautions were futile and unnecessary. Quot we Haven t Many Western tourists except for the israelis so the people know you Are israelis whether you admit it or not Quot he said with a smile. Quot besides most people Here Are poor and they believe King Hussein when he tells them the peace with Israel will make them Richer. So you have nothing to  Benny Cohen a 43-year-old manager at Israel s electric company did t take chances. Quot i Haven t dared speak to Many locals Quot he said smoking a water pipe at a posh restaurant in Amman. Quot there is hostility in the air. They Don t say anything but i notice unfriendly  Hisham Shayeb a 35-year-old contractor approached. Quot you Are israeli Quot Shayeb declared in halting hebrew. Quot shalom Quot he added using the hebrew word for Quot hello Quot and  Shayeb said he was originally from Nablus across the Jordan River in the West Bank which has been under israeli military occupation since 1967. 16 stripes Magazine january 5, 1995