European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - September 8, 1978, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Julia. Chillon vacation Stillin the Kitchen by Suzy Patterson associated press Ulia child lifted a Green bean from its boil ing water and tasted judiciously. Still crunch ily underdone she sniffed tossing it Back into the pot. Some old Biddy once said if you boil Beans quickly this Way they la lose some of their vitamins. I say if you re worried about that eat More  Julia child on vacation is not too different from Julia child at work. Even when she s in her own Kitchen amid the rolling Hills vineyards and Olive Groves of Southern France the Grande Dame of american cuisine can t resist deflating a gastronomic myth or two. The other Day while putting her touch to an unorthodox salade Nicaise for a vacation afternoon Julia de scribed her Holiday life in Grasse France defended american cooking and tossed off a few useful Kitchen tips. The other Day a famous writer who has hardly set foot on Yankee soil in 20 years rambled on about the Slop that flows and oozes through american supermarkets Julia fumed. That is Complete nuttiness and not True. There is great new interest in Home cooking in the United states even More than with the French who Don t bother so much. And you can get wonderful vegetables in the United states if you know what to look  Julia s been taking the starch out of French cuisine like this for 20 years. Her first Book mastering the Arto French cooking co authored by Louisette Bertholle and Simone Beck sent american novices flying into their kitchens to try fricassee quenelle and latins. Her television shows and newspaper columns came next turning the 6-foot-2, curly haired Julia into some thing of a cult figure among american Cooks. Another Book Julia child and company is coming out in the fall. You be got to Cook with gusto Julia who is 66, said Over her salad. Otherwise it s no Good at  gusto Julia s got. As much on vacation As everywhere Dail Magazine Julia child presents a salade Nicaise prepared in her Well equipped Kitchen in France. Else her Days Are All food buying it cooking it eating it talking and writing about it and even pondering it like an obsessive philosophical dilemma. Her Small Green and Blue Kitchen in Grasse is armed with the same weapons As her Arsenal in Cambridge mass knives whisks spoons graters slicers and sieves plus a food processor. Julia s Nicaise this afternoon is based on tomatoes anchovies tuna Capers olives plus a touch of Escoffier s version that includes steamed potatoes and Green Beans. What s Good enough for Escoffier is Good enough for me she says. This is absolutely non traditional she announces. I m going to make an Aioli or garlic Fla voted Mayonnaise to accompany the salade  off a Pulley she took an enormous bouquet of garlic. Using an Olive Wood mortar and Pestle Julia pounded furiously at enough garlic to hold off a Small army seven cloves for seven people. Her solution for garlic breath is succinct we just Tell everyone to eat garlic and then you won t notice  the unexpected does t worry her. She opened a tin of after a quiet dinner at Home Julia and Paul child enjoy a Glass of wine. Friday september 8, 1978 tuna which turned out to be sardines. Forgot to put on my glasses she said. Never mind it just adds a new  As always there were the typical child tips Toma toes should t be kept in the refrigerator. They die you should simply leave them to Ripen on the top of the  assemblage of ingredients with local Olive Oil dressing Means More to Julia than just tossing a salad. I be seen people swish everything together she said and it just looks like  her own production came out an artful mosaic of color and texture. Shopping with Julia in the tree shaded outdoor Market is a treat. She scrutinizes everything As though she were buying an engagement ring and she loves the Heady scents and fresh taste of All the herbs and vegetables of Southern France. French people do not know her As a Star and usually leave her alone. But in the Hilltop Village two minutes from her House Julia is recognized by everybody. She often embraces Michel the local caterer grocer in a big hug and buys More Pate than she had planned. One Day while she was picking out bananas a girl rushed up to her and gasped of Madame child i heard one of my friends saying you were More famous in your country than prime minister Raymond Barre is in  while Julia immerses herself in food her husband Paul a retired Diplomat photographs and paints startlingly lifelike scenes Many of which adorn their living room. Their Region includes some of France s finest restau rants and they try those grand menus As often As Diges Tion permits. Eating with them always includes an astute run Ning commentary Between Julia and Paul such As the one recently at be relays restaurant in Moupins. It s owned by Andre Suriname who used to own Lutece in new York. We just want Good food whatever it is Julia said this Nouvelle cuisine has been extremely useful be cause it has released chefs from the traditional Strait jacket and makes them feel Freer to do what they want. But sometimes they go overboard. The next thing you know we May get poached cow s udders with oysters the entree that afternoon was hot Duck foie gras quickly sauteed and de glazed with excellent wine Vine Gar. For her main course Julia chose a succulent Small Pigeon and everyone sinned to the last with a dessert of chocolate mousse. The Best absolutely the Best i have Ever tasted Julia pronounced. Her husband is 76, and neither gives a Fig for diets. Fin Ishing his mousse Paul sighs i shall die  the stars and stripes Page 13