European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - September 10, 1978, Darmstadt, Hesse                                In a three Star you re not Likely to Dine Elbow to Elbow. Rather the emphasis is on Fine food amid relaxed surroundings. Eating tour of by Mimi Sheraton new York times o take an eating tour of France As so Many americans Are preparing to do right now and to Stop Only at restaurants bearing the coveted three Star Michelin or the red rooster and Crown of the guide Kleber is to miss out on some of the Best and most exciting food. It is interesting to note that while both guides agree absolutely on top rated restaurants there is a wide discrepancy Between their ratings a lower Levels. Although we did have great meals at a few of those top rated restaurants during a month Long tour last fall the restaurants below provided us with our Best experiences and did so in charming set Tings and at prices far below those of the most grandiose establishments. Telephone in Advance to Reserve and Check on closing dates. Paris Dodin bouffant 25 Rue Frederic Sauton Paris 5e. 1 325-25-14. One Star from Michelin Black rooster an Crown from Kleber. This is where we had the Best meal of our tour. The restaurant is the two year old creation of Jacques Maniere the former owner who made pact Ole so popular in spite of his refusal to cooperate with Michelin inspectors and so be in the guide. Dodling bouffant appears in the 1978 Mich Elin in Light Type indicating that Maniere did not care enough about endorsement to Send Back the information form. One of the Early creators of the Nouvelle cuisine the raffish by handsome Maniere feels that most of what passes for new in cooking is really based on old culinary concepts. For example his speciality cooking with steam was practice by the ancient chinese and other Oriental cultures. In the airy simple upstairs dining room which we preferred to the Darker Pusher downstairs with its Brown Walls Mirror panelling and lavish Wall hangings we had a luncheon for five so spectacularly delicious it became a Standard throughout the tour. It was impossible to pick a favorite among the appetizers we tried. The satiny raw Salmon with dressing of chives and fresh Lemon juice was keen competitor for the velvety Boudin de canard co fit a Duck and foie gras combination served with a salad of Crisp Julienne slivers of vegetables in a dressing that blended Creme Fraiche mild vinegar and a Sweet nut Oil probably Walnut. Main courses All attained near total perfection whether As simple As the Crisp Fried strips of fish go Jonette de Lotte with a verdant accent of Basil or As Complex As the grilled Steak do canard a filet of duckling breast Servidas rare As Good beef and pointed up by a Green Pepper Corn sauce. A Faux filet of beef braised with shallots was served Page 10 the stars and stripes with an Al Dente vegetable melange that included hearts of Artichoke and a Poulet de Bresse Vapour moist and delicate steamed Chicken just a bit too Pink for our taste was beautifully accented by a lacing of tarragon butter. Veal sweetbreads with a Julienne of vegetables were braised to the exact Point of gently set custard a bit too soft but interesting nonetheless. Pineapple sherbet freshly made when ordered a sub Lime chocolate mousse Pear Charlotte glazed Apple tart on paper thin puff pastry and jewels of Petite fours we refitting Windup. Food and wine prices Here were relatively moderate and the meal described for five with two wines Coffee came to about $140, service included. Pierre Traiteur 10 Rue de Richelieu Ler. 1 296-09-17. One Star from Michelin caldron and Crown from Kleber. Ten years ago anyone who was interested in food and went to Paris was almost inevitably touted on to this excellent restaurant. Almost no one i asked last year had Ever heard of it so fickle is fashion. But two dinner proved it was As Superb As Ever. The incomparable Jesu de Moreau a coarse garlic scented meat sausage poached in Beaujolais a delicate Parsley and Ham in garlic aspic Jambon Persiller the hot terrine of Rouget that delicate Mediterranean fish Flavoured with fennel and a series of earthy Subtle Pate were All among the Best appetizers of the trip. Main courses were classically Bourgeois. The Blan Quette de Veau with a hint of Bay Leaf stuffed poached Chicken in Heady Broth a wonderful Civet de canard its sauce thickened with fresh Duck blood and the calf s head rav Gote were All the sort of food for which one leaves Home in the first place. So too were the Steak a Poivre the Rosy boiled beef in Micelle with vegetables Andall the game. Excellent desserts included Strawberry Charlotte pears in wine and Olufs a la Neige. Dinner for two with three courses Coffee a bottle of Chablis fourth aumand tip came to about $52. Allard 41 Rue , 6e. 1 326-48-23. Onestar from Michelin caldron and Crown from Kleber. Featuring what is unquestionably Paris s most popular cuisine de Femma woman s cooking this antique crowded Bistro is presided Over by Fernande Allard who runs the Kitchen and her husband Andre who is equally adept at stocking the cellar with burgundian wines. Classic favourites include the delicious and Hearty escargots in shallot butter better Here than anywhere else Pike turbot scallops or Bass in Burre Blanc braised duckling with olives or turnips beef Stew with carrots an inspired dish of Partridge with Green cabbage Petit Sale Salt cured pork with fragrant lentils and an irresistible bitter chocolate Charlotte with a Vanilla per fumed Creme a Glaise. This seemed a bargain at $25 person for a full meal wine and tip included. Sunday september 10, 1978 Cartet 62 Rue de Malte lie. 1. Lunch Only. Not in Michelin caldron and Crown from  Marie Antoinette Cartet first prepares food that remains magnificently consistent them manages the tiny dining room which seats about 17 people. Favourites Are the Mackerel Vin Blanc in a Glassy aspic homemade charcuterie a soft souffle of the pureed Salt codfish bran Dade do Morue or a loftier creation based on crab sliced rare cuts of roast Lamb with nuggets of garlic that look like toasted Butternuts boiled beef a la Micelle and duckling with fresh figs. Although there is a daily fixed Price lunch for about $14 a person if you want to eat across the Board trying All specialities food and wine will run about $20 per person. Be Petit Coin de la bourse 16 Rue Fey Deau 2e 1 508 00-08. One Star from Michelin caldron from Kleber. Guy Girard the owner and chef Cooks a combination of the new and the classic cuisines and his place is Well Worth a visit. This antique establishment with its dark Wood and Plush red leather half curtains and the solid heavy eaters from the bourse across the Street is Archt typically Bourgeois. If there is a single outstanding dish Here it is the Home made noodles with fresh foie gras and truffles available Only when both Are in season. But there Are More than enough exceptional dishes at other times the Petal Pink terrine of crab the salad of poached scallops dressed with a Lemony Mayonnaise Type dressing fricassee of escargots kidneys magnificently sauteed to outer Edge crispness with Silken Interior tenderness perfect Goujon Nette of sole on a nest of purged sorrel and grilled rare Steak do canard with prunes. Disappointing were the souffle de canard a sort of wet Duck meat loaf in a Duck breast the sorbets and the Leaden Caffoutis. Puff pastry tart with blueberries and an eggy Creme Patis Siefe were Beautiful As were the tiny aged chevre cheeses cured in Olive Oil and Marc with Herb branches. Service was charming and accommodating. Lunch for three with appetizer main course cheese dessert Coffee and wine came to just about $65, tip included. A Cochon d or 31 rude Jour Ler. 1 236-38-31. Lunch Only mondays though saturdays. Not in Michelin Cal Dron from Kleber. This tiny somewhat broken Down Bistro which seats about 15 people at capacity is in the heart of the old Les Halles meat Market and has been run since 1926 by Ger Maine Sauniers who Cooks and oversees the dining room. It is the epitome of the Small Bistro with a few in comparable specialities. Start with the Garlicky selections of Pate and the pork Ril Lettes or a simple Tomato salad in season. Do not skip the Crisp Platter size whole sole me uni Ere which i have never know to be equalled at any restaurant at any Price or the grilled pies de pore the magnificent grilled kidneys or the roast pork with garlic. Here too is what must be the Best a Kafoutis in Paris the crust less custard made with cherries or other fruit topped with sugar and glazed when ordered. No reservations Are taken and if you Are later than noon 11 45 to play Safe you la probably find the place full. A three course lunch without wine will run $15 to $20 a person with service. Foie gras cooked As a co fit then served in its own Rich Amber aspic. La soup de Gre Noailles a creamy blend of egg Lemon and White wine with a Chicken Stock base was enriched with the delicate White meat of frogs legs. Massolette of sole fillets three turbans filled with a Dux Elles of Mush rooms and truffles in a White wine sauce Heady with fish fumes was exceptional As was one of the Best versions of Aiguille Tes de canard encountered on the trip. The roasted filet of Duck breast sliced and rare was enriched with a dark chocolate Brown sauce As smooth As velvet thickened with a Puree of Chicken livers and Duck blood. The marvelous cheeses the Best Almond tiles cookies exquisite Olufs a la Neige but Only fair sorbets and Pas tries wound up the meal a comparatively astounding meal. The fixed Price menu runs $18 to $22 a person a four course a Al carte selection of specialities will be close to $35 with wine. Aux armes de France 1 Grande Reu Ammer Schwehr. 89 47-10-12. Two stars from Michelin Black rooster and Crown from Kleber. This hotel and restaurant suggests a flowery palatial country residence of Royalty so gracious Are its proportions its profusion of candles and glistening Silver and Copper. The chef and owner Pierre Gaertner a student and disciple of the legendary Point serves an appetizer and salad named for his Mentor salade Fernand Point Rich enough to be a meal in itself. It was a Sublime tossing of lobster foie gras truffles Artichoke hearts mushrooms and string Beans in a creamy Herb sauce. Terrine de pois sons with a Green Herb sauce and escargots braised in butter and riesling and nestled in puff pastry would be worthy of an equally lofty namesake. One of the elegant dishes on the menu Here is fillets of sole Aux Noailles. Glowingly fresh and firm sole fillets poached in White wine were placed Over the firm eggy noodles of Alsace then All was grat need under a cheese guided Cream sauce. Service could not have been More Beneficent. Dinner for two with wine came to about $85. Be caveat d Egu Isheim 3 place chateau St. Leon Egu Isheim 89 41-08-89. One Star from Michelin Cal Dron and Crown from Kleber. A Hilly old alsatian wine town is the site of this rugged peasant like tavern serving the Earth est of local special Waties. Downstairs in the wine tavern with its huge an Tique casks one can Sample local wines and nibble on puffy hot cheese and onion tarts. Upstairs in the simple country dining room you can indulge in the big fat Alsace snails done in riesling with barely a hint of garlic the Light quenelle of Pike poached in the same wine Schif Fala the Salt cured pork shoulder with freshly grated horseradish Corni Chons and pickled sour cherries or a perfect Chou route with Bacon Ham fresh pork and potatoes. Of All the restaurants and bakeries we tried throughout Alsace this was the Only place that made a truly notable tarte Aux Quetscher the native tart of Blue plums which must be glistening with a crystallized Topping of sugar and plenty of cinnamon. Prices at Cavalu d Egu Isheim Are almost unbelievably Low. Our dinner for two came to about $32 with wine and service but there Are interesting adequate fixed Price menus for $9 to $10 minus wine and service. Lyons Alsace a tray of oysters starts things off right. A Crocodile 10 Rue 1 outre Strasbourg. 88 32-13-02. Two stars from Michelin Black rooster and Crown from  its capacious dark Wood and leather Booths Oriental carpets and old Copper skylight and plants this restaurant was in every Way a Joy. Frothy Light cheese tarts piping hot from the oven were set Down for All Fol Lowed by one of the most unforgettable dishes of this Jour Ney the appetizer of Boneless Quail stuffed with fresh what the symbols mean in the guide Michelin three stars mean a restaurant Worth a special journey two mean Worth a Detour and one Good cooking in its  in the guide Kleber a red roster and Crown Indi Cate the Best the same sign in Black great. A Black caldron and Crown indicate a great restau rant in simple surroundings and a plainer caldron Good food in still plainer surroundings. In both guides inclusion even without a Symbol is a recommendation. Leon de Lyon 1 Rue Pleney Lyons. 78 23-11-33. Raised from one Star to two in 1978 Michelin caldron and Crown from Kleber. This snug typically Lyonnaise tavern with its dark Wood leaded stained Glass windows comfortable banquettes and hospitable service is a thorough going de  Sau Cisson Chad would be Worth ordering even if it were not As earthy meaty and garlic scented As it was or even if the salad of sequin size lentils and the warm potato salad in Clear Olive Oil were not the remarkable accompaniments. It would have been Worth it just to see the fabulous Copper and brass pig terrine in which the Sau cission was kept steaming. A terrine of duckling spinach and Sweet breads was As Good As the Sau Cisson. Pickled sour Cher Ries Corn Schons Pearl onions and a firey Mustard came with this. Sole with noodles Lyons style was dressed in a Cream sauce Pink with fresh tomatoes and enriched with Sli Vered raw mushrooms crayfish tails and Fleu Rons of puff pastry. Fricassee de yol Aille de Bresse the tender moist Bresse Chicken with a wild mushroom Cream sauce was a hard Choice to make Over the whole braised Rose kid Neys Paul  House wine a deep flowery Chi roubles was about $3.25 for a half liter Pitcher. Lunch for two including wine and service was about $45 there is a fixed Price meal for about $14 a person without wine or service. Sunday september 10, 1978 the stars and stripes Page 11