European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - February 25, 1986, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Page 16 the stars and stripes tuesday february 25, 1986 new Book gives thanks for american cuisine " United press International Pristop Heridon found the inspiration for glorious american food far from the expensive Coffee tables that will display his $50 labor of despite the Book s upfront demand for disposable income done found the spirit of american food among people battling to make ends meet. All too often he found it was a losing Battle Tor survival of the people and preservation of the food. I did t like the direction american food was going the former new York caterer said. I Felt there was a lot in our past that was Worth developing and getting excited about. I feel there s really something Worth saving that could become  Idone s caution might sound strange after a year of Media bombardment about american food. The subject graced the t cover of virtually every news Magazine f and it found its Way into feature stories on everything from global politics to Bruc Springsteen. Vet done is afraid that for All the new patriotism and especially for All the new profiteering something valuable is in danger of being lost. Realizing his Effort might be too Little too late he is convinced nonetheless he has made a contribution. Three years ago done looked around his Long Island Home and meditated on its position Between a Pond and an Ocean and next to a farm. He seemed at the heart of american cooking perched As he was on the threshold of its finest fresh ingredients. Already the author of glorious food he pitched his vision to random House and walked out with the Freedom to Chase his dream. Idone and photographer Tom Eckerle set off on a culinary tour of the United states finding the Farmers and fishermen and ranchers tracing the Many sources that explain How people Cook. They specifically discovered a level of existence at which meals were still built around local produce and regional recipes of the past. These were places i d never been and i wanted to give people a feeling of what this is All about said Idone. This whole american food thing has been hyped up so much. I realize people need to write about something but i think there s been too much writing and not enough  Idone who once presented his catering with All the finesse of French Nouv efe cuisine earned from his travels about food that was. In a sense rough around the edges. He went looking for the single american cuisine. Instead he found a handful each diverse Ever changing and ultimately exciting each largely forgotten in the Rush to serve the trendiest crawfish be Jnet or guacamole pizza. Beginning in new England Idone proceeded Down the Atlantic coast through the South and Southwest up along the Pacific and Back again through St. He collected what he considered the Best end truest american food from nine distinct regions. Glorious american food offers recipes for Long Island steamed Bass with elder and Ginger Pennsylvania dutch Chicken with Dill dumplings and new Orleans Jambalaya. It also serves up such regional wonders As Pacific coast Salmon grilled on Alder Wood Southwest Turkey mole with Blue con pancakes and hot Mango Chutney and a Midwest pm thanksgiving dinner of roast Turkey with pan Gravy Cranberry and Kumquat conserve pumpkin mousse with crystallized Ginger and hot mincemeat with rum hard sauce. The characteristics were so Subtle that i even have problems keeping the threads together  said Idone. That s Why i divided it into regions. It really in t american cuisine. It s All these different pockets. So when i say glorious american food i mean a Celebration of this diversity rather than a  an Eye catching photo opens every Section of the Book followed by Idone s carefully researched introduction to the Region and history of its cookery. The menus and recipes rely on regionally available foods All showcased in Light of tradition but refined when necessary to please modern palates. In addition to menus for full course gourmet dinners glorious american food includes every Region s most typical Street or fast food mid Atlantic hot dogs for instance or deep South poor boys As Well As the regions most celebrated drinks. These Range from new England hot buttered rum to Southern mint juleps. Wines Are recommended for each regional menu by Penelope Wisner. With a background in catering Idone has a none too surprising flair for putting menus together. In his new Book he looks to his Homeland Tor themes and variations. Each segment of glorious american food is built around Complete meals Plain or fancy feasts that represent the Best dishes each Region of the country has produced. The recipe Are a Nola As such things go. The ingredients Are local but increasingly available in most regions. And Idone s sense of style is evident from his descriptions of each meal s place in a culture to his numerous suggestions Tor serving. Charleston s famous and fabulous she crab soup is one of the big winners in the Section called South. It makes for a Light but memorable lunch served with Salt cured Ham biscuits salad and rime curd tartlets. Poussin a Little Chicken not to be confused with a Cornish game Hen takes Center stage in a meal celebrating the West coast. The use of Ripe locally grown olives resembles the tape Nades of Southern France. Idone surrounds his Poussin dish with fresh Lima Beans and smoked eel Parker House Rolls and poppy seed cake with Caramel frosting. She crab soup 4 cups heavy Cream 4 trip. Butter it cup finely chopped a Allota 1 Pound Freeh Lump crab meat with Roe freshly grated Vic tap. Cayenne Pepper grated seat of it Lemon Matt it Bep. Finely chopped fre hear Ley dry aha Fajr optional in a Small Saucepan reduce the Cream Over moderate heat by one third. In a Large Saucepan Meb the butter. Add the shallots and saute until witted. Add the crab Moal and Cook gently tossing Tor 2 minutes. Pour in the reduced heavy Cream and simmer for 5 minutes. Season with Nutmeg Cayenne and Lemon zest Rind. Check the seasonings and add Salt to taste. Mound some crab meat in each warm plate and pour the soup around it. Sprinkle lightly with Parsley. Serve the Sherry at the table add big a spoonful to each portion if desired serves 4 to 6. Poua Abi with Olive Puree Olive Puree 1 cup Anua tatted Mack Olive pitted 1 Dove garlic chopped about tit tbsp. Olive Oil Pou fat 4 Youmin Tor very Young Chicken each about 1% Pound Matt and freshly milled Black Pepper dive Oil for the Bird 2 Sweet red bed Pepper cored tee dad. Dewe toed and Cut into 1-Inch a tripe 2 Yelm bed Pepper prepared a 3tbap.ob�ob % cup dry White wine 1 cup Chicken Dock to prepare the Olive Puree blend the dives garlic and Oil in a food processor until smooth. If too dry add an additional half Tablespoon of Oil. Reserve. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Remove the fat from the cavities of the Small chickens then Salt and Pepper the a cavities. Using your Index Finger carefully loosen the skin from the breasts. Spread a Little of the Olive Puree into the j pockets. Truss the Birds and Brush with Olive Oil set the Birds on a rack and roast Basting frequently for 30 to 40 minutes or until the juices run Clear when the legs Are pierced. Meanwhile in a Large Skillet saute the red and yellow Bell peppers in the Olive Oil Over Low heat until they Wilt and Are tender. Season with Salt and Pepper Transfer the Birds to a warm Platter spoon off any excess fat from the roasting pan. Add we wine and Stock and de Glaze the pan Over moderate heat scraping up any Brown bits that cling to the Bottom of the pan. Season the sauce with Salt and Pepper and Cook until reduced by one third. Strain and Reserve. Serve the Birds with the sauteed peppers and the sauce. Serves 4. / 55 Tull Rion by Betsy Duncan