European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - March 6, 1986, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Review Germany s l paso brings Tex mex to the Rhine Chow line by sgt ret Clement Lounder jumbo Perry and me were up in Wiesbaden Germany on a mercy Type Mission the other Day looking for food worthy of being referred to As mexican. Very Vern Decateur and his sister Joleen had called the Day before to announce some tremulous news their Mother mrs. Dorothy sue Decateur of Beaumont Texas would be arriving Over Here in the very near future to visit her offspring and generally see for herself How the Marshall plan is coming along. Since getting ready for Momma was going to keep very Vern and Joleen busier than a one armed fiddler at a barn dance they both wanted me to find a mexican restaurant Good enough to keep Momma s craving for Tex mex under control. Joleen did most of the persuading. Clem cakes she said in a voice Sweet enough to pour Over a so Papilla if you help me now you la be helping yourself  i Don t know about you but i got the lady s Drift right Quick. So jumbo Perry and me headed up to Wiesbaden where i had heard there is a place called the Elpaso restaurant that might fit the Bill. Jumbo had his bulk packed into his Best outfit a Little number he got from one of them tailors that serve gis serving their country in the pretty far East. These Are Guys who will sew you a whole suit for $7 if you bring your own buttons and thread. In jumbo s Case we re talking a Green three piece that the first couple times you see it immediately brings to mind the words up  Don t get me wrong it is not just that jumbo is a Lousy Dresser. Even if somebody could convince him that double knit and seersucker do not mix Worth a Damn it would still take a merger Between Tony Lama and International Harvester to get him into decent duds. There Are just not Many places manufacturing clothing with immense stamped on the neck Label. Hell the material in a single pair of jumbo s pants represents More yardage than what the Falcons racked up on the ground last season. Face it if the Guy Ever orders a new Wool suit there la be a budget surplus in Korea and the sheep of the world will declare a National Day of mourning. But i am rambling. Wiesbaden for those who Are not familiar with it is a partially Chi Chi town with your usual historical buildings your baroque train station and your Bunch of quiet avenues lined with Trees that they Are always trimming into nubs i do not know Why. The City has also got a Casino and a handful of health spas where German workers go for a week at a crack to Roll around in pools of mud. Lady wrestling unfortunately is prohibited. We found the Elpaso easy enough coasted the Toad into the restaurant s parking lot a plus right off the Bat and headed inside. Like most of your european restaurants this one is Small with maybe 10 tables. The decor is your honest to goodness fake mexican potted ferns a a Wiesbaden s Elpaso can make even a texan feel at Home. Stripes photo jumbo Perry couple of curved Arches and them White stucco Walls decorated with a Serape Over Here and a Sombrero Over there. As soon As he got the Chance jumbo started doing his impression of a starving third world country ordering up a pile of nachos some Chili and a two Taco combination plate. The waitress was looking a Little startled like but i have come to expect this behaviour from jumbo. What do you expect from a Guy whose most favorite saying in the world is does anybody mind if i polish off them potatoes personally i went for a Quesadilla and a fiery Burrito. We decided to split a liter Pitcher of margaritas which come in seven flavors like Strawberry and banana but which we got in your Normal Lime variety. A Short look at some of the courses we handled the Elpaso nachos Are among the Best in Europe there is no doubt about that. They have several versions but the ones jumbo ordered Are the supreme version that come All oozed Over with cheese and onions and tomatoes and peppers and with a bowl of sour Cream and onion dip on the Side. These would make a Nice lunch for just about everybody except jumbo. A Quesadilla is normally a flour Tortilla that is folded up with a Little cheese and butter tucked inside but the ones they serve Here Are More like a big old fat Burrito stuffed with cheese and Jalapenos and served underneath sour Cream and shredded iceberg lettuce. Very tasty. The Elpaso serves Chili with pintos a fact that will no doubt disappoint All them True texans who claim real Chili is bean less. So be it. Anyway the Elpaso version has got Beans ground beef onions peppers and a medium size fire throughout about a 1.75 alarm. Jumbo s face lit up like a Shriner at a Clam bake when my Burrito arrived giving you a pretty Good idea about How big the portions Are. In a word Damn big. The thing was bulging with shredded beef and came with Salsa that was about two alarm although they have a Green sauce available most Days that is supposed to kick things up considerably. Completely top drawer. Now about them margaritas. They were not the Best i have Ever thrown Back in Europe but they come pretty close. True Margarita drinkers will recognize that they use a Little bit too much Lime juice making the drink a mite too Sweet. I aim to go Back and Sample the other flavors sometime though. That is All the food we was Able to consume but the place has got lots More. Salads All manner of enchiladas Taqui tos steaks re frieds. Your Basic whole Gamut of South of the Border eats. Plus a very Fine stable of California wines for people who Are getting a Little tired of the French juice. Joleen was about Halfway through the party she was holding in her House trailer when 1 got her on the phone to pass on jumbo and my rating. First off the Elpaso has got your Friendly service your clean and pleasant atmosphere and your very reasonable prices. Jumbo and me dropped about $25 for our meal but almost half of that was margaritas. If you sipped wine or a Little Beer you could bring the total Down considerably. And the food As far As jumbo and me Are concerned can rightfully use the word  the Elpaso is located at 5 Wall Fer Strasse in downtown Wiesbaden. Call 06121-805124 for reservations which Are advised if you have your heart set on getting in. Jumbo and me give the place four pointy fingers. Ratings a a a is a awesome eats. We re talking Paradise on a plate Here. Seas Ery f be dining crack service an memorable food and drink. B b h so id Chow. Good food of atmosphere and pleasant service. & 2 decent. About equal to a Ponderosa Steak House. G path butt. Crummy Chow so so service Semi ratty Interior. March 6,1986 stripes Magazine 17