European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - March 23, 1986, Darmstadt, Hesse An Honor guard stands by a military memorial in the Center of the City of Vientiane Laos. It was built in 1975 when communists officially took Over the government. Presence there. Laos has a marxist government with a vietnamese troop presence but an american presence too Murkowski added. The More i observed the situation the More it interested in the old Days Washington pumped millions of dollars in Aid into Laos scores of Cia men roamed the country s triple canopy Jungle and Vientiane was a regular Stop for touring . Congressmen and government fact finders. Foreign correspondents Junior diplomats assorted a photo footloose adventure seekers and air America pilots kept the bars propped up in the old City of Luang Rabang to the North. Several Vientiane nightclubs were rocking. Never a place for raucous nightlife Vientiane nonetheless used to have exotic ambience. At the height of the Vietnam War marijuana was sold openly in the City Market and opium was readily available in any Alley. Expatriate europeans sometimes dressed in tropical Whites and rumoured to own pet tigers were resident characters. Old veterans of the French foreign legion aging beauties with mysterious pasts dropout american hippies All could be spotted at local swimming pools or pro menacing in evening ritual along the Mekong As the Sun faded Westward Over the Golden Triangle. Cheap French haute cuisine peking Duck and decent Vin Ordi Naire at a Buck a bottle were synonymous with Vientiane. The hotel Lane Xang was the heart of the action a comfortable Multi Story Lodge boasting air conditioning a stunning Palm tree framed Vista of the Mekong and a swimming Pool always peopled by the local Gentry and anybody of note passing through. Now the Lane Xang is the official people s hotel. The View is still spectacular but the plumbing leaks the air conditioners wheeze and the Pool is on its last Lap. Yet communists As Well As capitalists like fresh roses on their dining tables. There Are still pressed White Linen cloths although they be been carefully mended. And the waiters smile. Today this same shabbily elegant City is shut Down tight against any hint of Loose morals extravagant living or nostalgia for prosperous Days of the past. But in the 11th year since the revolution there is now a discotheque in Vientiane. It is the Only place in Laos where dancing is officially allowed. The disco is much the same As any in the american Midwest said Tony Principi a Senate staff aide who was part of a . Group visiting this year. The girls were Young and pretty the music was Rock n Roll and the Beer was Good and cheap even by Washington standards said Principi who danced with the local ladies until the 2 . Closing. Also drinking the $1-a-bottle German Beer and Boonying to the beat were russians australians and East europeans. The americans were surprised to hear popular hits by Cyndi Lauper Billy Joel and Abba blaring out of the loudspeakers. They also guessed that the fashionably dressed laotian women Clad in leather pants and the latest Eye makeup were related to top ranked officials. Even under communism there s a higher socioeconomic scale for the elite noted Principi. Some comrades Are More equal than in Vientiane the carved dragons adorning the roofs of Buddhist temples Are still flecked with Gold paint. At the big City Market just about the last vestige of Hustle and Bustle left in town silversmiths still Hammer away at their legendary Art amidst crowded stalls of plastic shoes and tin pans. Even the lowliest dwelling still boasts an Orchid or two dangling in decoration from a Coconut Shell. Yet there is no National Highway system no Railroad no decent internal postal service and 126 of every 1,000 laotian babies die at birth. The Gross National product totals less than $500 million about what americans spend to subsidize Amtrak and 85 percent of the people use most of their Energy to feed themselves. The tradition of siesta adhered to in War As Well As peace allows office workers and even upper Echelon government officials to pedal Home Between noon and 2 . To tend gardens vitally important to their family s dinner tables. Laotians remind outsiders that 1,000 years before Christ their ancestors were growing Rice beside the Mekong. In the dry season a Brief time that passes for Winter when the Frangipani Trees Only Bloom a Little instead of a lot a group of americans stood beside that legendary River. Silhouetted in the burning Orange Sunset the strangers watched laotian Farmers practice their ancient rituals the ancient ways. They saw floating blossoms close up for another sultry night. Around them caged pet monkeys slept tethered parrots were still. Laotian children paused by the River distracted from the Sunset by the foreigners. But soon that curiosity paled and they went on their Way kicking a Dusty Ball Down the Street toward bedtime. Laos has worn Many labels in its Oriental history. For centuries it has warred with its neighbors. It has been the conqueror and the conquered colonial Pawn and capitalist tool. It is now a country of comrades. But its natural Beauty has always made Laos a magic place enduring beyond Man s misadventures. No matter what its future it remains Lotus land. Sunday March 23, 1986 stars and stripes Page 17
