European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - September 19, 1985, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Chow line the Rotterdam restaurants dessert is served with a bucket of dry ice which makes a spas fit effect. Dutch restaurant makes real Man feel at Home by sgt. Ret Clement Lounder special to strip a Magazine As you might be Able to guess from the act that one of the biggest singing stars in the entire world is a Guy who wears a beaded Glove on one hand it is getting mighty difficult to find what used to be referred to As a real  i do not know Why this is. I do know there Are a lot of men out there today who Are dressing in pastels and buying Udy Garland records and who if asked to Point out the plug wrench in a pile of tools Are going to fail. But if Ever there was a honest to Blue keep an Eye on your sister Type of real Man it is my buddy Brewster Doody. For starters Brewster s got a pet Cila monster which to named Hava after one of the daughters in the jewish musical play fiddler on the roof. Hava the Gila he Calls it. It is a mean creature that la take your thumb off if you Are dumb enough to stick your hand into the 75-gallon aquarium that it lives in. And Brewster has this monster As a pet. But More importantly than that is the fact that Brewster is a collector of the Pontiac to which is let s face it your real Man car. You Are basically not going to find a to within 400 Miles of san Francisco because the Goat is Low it is mean. And Brewster owns seven of them. Are we talking walking tall sequel Here or what i bring this All up Only to Tell you about the restaurant in Rotterdam Holland that me Ana Brewster ate at while we were up there picking up his latest to which is Candy Apple red and has Glass packs and assorted other goodies and which l shipped Over Here on one of those go boats the rotisserie restaurant is situated about 300 fee above the ground in the eur Mast one of them b g Golf tee looking towers like they have in Frankfurt and san Antonio Texas. Now right off i got to mention that to get up to this restaurant you will be required to stand in one line to pay to get in the Tower you will stand in another line to get on the elevator that goes up the Tower and you will stand in another line to go Down one floor to get to the actual fes a a doors. Also you run the risk of the lady at the ticket counter at the Bottom of the Tower lying to you about the restaurant opening at 5 . She lied to Brewster and me because the restaurant does not open until 6 . And we had to sit in the snack bar on the other Side of the Tower and drink Orange Boom Beer for an hour while watching this real fat family at the next table eat Chicken with their hands. And there is nothing absolutely nothing worse than watching fat people eat Chicken with their hands. Trust me. As it turns out the owner of the rotisserie overheard us complaining about the fat family and How we d been lied to and gave us one of his Best tables right next to the Glass and looking Down Over the whole City. And then while we were drinking our Little aperitifs and looking Over the menu he Laid a Little free Goose liver Pate on us and said he hoped that the wait would t spoil our meal and we said we hoped so too. Brewster decided to have the snails As an appetizer and they came in shells and not in those Little Ceramic things majors that restaurants Are All using nowadays so they Don t have to Wash out the shells. This is an immediate sign of a restaurant that cares in my Book. The important thing with your snails of course is the sauce and the rotisserie s garlic and butter and herbs were correctly proportioned and Brewster said they rated very High indeed. It is not difficult to do snails properly but there Are a lot of places that manage it. I went for the filled mushroom Caps which i have to say right Here were so close to perfect that the difference in t Worth speculating about. There were two Caps about As big around As a ration cans and they were overflowing with crab meat and shrimps and the stems of the mushrooms and the whole works was in a Light Newburg kind of sauce. I do not give perfect scores but these hummers were a solid 9.5 on the International 1 to 10 scale. For main courses Brewster ordered up the grilled sole. Now a lot of restaurants Don t realize that when it comes to cooking your fresh fish the less you do to it the better off you Are going to be. But Here the sole came lightly grilled a couple minutes a Side and was filleted right at the Side of our table. Brewster gave it an 8.5. I did t have As much Luck with the veal. The meat was a very Good Cut and was cooked Well enough so cutting through it was no bother at All. The problem was that it was served in a sauce which was exactly like Campbell s Tomato soup and which just overpowered the delicate taste of that meat. Campbell s soup goes for about 25 cents a can and the veal went for $14 and they both tasted exactly alike. I got to give the dish Only a 6 rating and that is on the strength of the meat alone. Hell who knows maybe Campbell s Tomato is expensive because they have to import it to the Low countries. We also had these Little Liny potatoes grilled which deserve mention. Brewster insisted on getting a dry red wine because he thinks the White with fish Rule is Bull and so we split a bottle of 1979 chateau Des Moines a French Bordeaux that if you Ever see on a menu you should get because it is very very Fine lust remember the capital of Iowa and you will be Able to recall the wine. Now about dessert. They have a thing there called the palette which is a combination dish featuring a Little of All the desserts they got and it comes in a Ceramic dish that s shaped like an artist s palette and that s what we had and i recommend it. Another Nice touch is that when they bring you dessert they sneak in a bucket of dry ice and pour water Over it and All of a sudden your table is flooded with this vapor that looks like smoke and swallows up your plates Ryhd glasses and pours Over the Edge of the table so impressively that i thought Brewster was going to have a Vietnam Flashback but he did not. After that we had Coffee you get your own Little Copper pot on a Burner and cognacs and then the Bill which comes with your Little chocolate covered strawberries on toothpicks. They were real Friendly about dividing the total Down the Middle and making two Bills so Brewster could put his half on his credit card. Driving the to Back Home we had time to discuss our rating. First off the place is kind of pricey so if you have four or five kids with you you re going to want to Dine in the snack bar on the other Side of the Tower. The Bill for Brewster and i was $70 $20 was win which is not cheap but excepting the veal everything was Well Worth it. The service was very Good and because of the View the atmosphere is Good. And As Brewster noted you never have to ask for a table by the window. Also the stall there Bend Over backwards trying to speak English to you. I Hope it was the wait Worth our waiter said to us As we were leaving. It was the wait Worth. The rotisserie is in the eur Mast Tower at 20 Parkhaven in Rotterdam. Telephone 010-364811 for reservations. Brewster and me give the place four Pointer fingers which we Are now using in place of the chevrons which we used to use to rate restaurants with. And Many thanks to both those persons who wrote in about the last column. Ratings b b b 3 2 awesome eats. We re talking Paradise on a plate Here. Fos be Fol very Fine dining. Crack service and memorable food and drink. H b Fol solid Chow. Good food of atmosphere and pleasant service. Ujj Foj decent. About equal to a Ponderosa Steak House. Path butt. Crummy Chow so so service Semi ratty Interior. September 19,1985 stripes Magazine 17