European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - April 10, 1986, Darmstadt, Hesse Food " "llllllililllllljlilbbfft1T 1 1 Nammix Smi my Huhm a Fol pmaaaaT5maipiffliyi� american tastes of the 1950s was for the most part traditional. Today the country has changed the Way it thinks of food. American chefs stay close to their heritage j no by John Demers United press International despite its refinement by the French baking has always been a supremely american Art. Mom after All never grilled Apple pie Over Mesquite or stir Fried it in a wok. American Cooks since colonial times have managed to bake just about everything fish or fowl meat or potatoes appetizers or desserts. From baked Beans to birthday cakes the oven has been at the Center of family celebrations whether Plain or delightfully fancy. Today that tradition is getting a fresh new look at the hands of Young american chefs. These Kitchen craftsmen draw on their own memories of Home cooking then add delicious splashes that blend patriotism with exoticism. There is a nationalistic feeling that encourages us to be american think american eat american said Charles Lotke executive chef at the 50-year old Bookbinder s seafood House in Philadelphia. Americans Are turning toward our own resources because of the High Cost of imports and the ability to find High Quality foods in our own Lotke is one of 12 chefs at respected restaurants across the United states who contributed recipes for baked dishes to a taste of american an interesting Little Booklet published by a company called Chicago metallic products. The sponsoring organization has every reason to promote baking it produces a line of gourmet bake Ware called Bakalon that s designed to handle the Job in less time at lower temperatures american chefs such As those featured in the Booklet Are creating dishes that showcase indigenous ingredients from the Georgia peaches. Used in a Cobbler at Mary Mac s Tea room in Atlanta to wild Rice baked with shrimp and crab meat in a casserole from . Hills in Minneapolis St. Paul. Instead of disguising food we re now enhancing it said Ype Hengst chef at the american cafe in Washington and creator of the recipe for marinated Duck with pecans and prunes. Hengst said he bakes and roasts More than Ever before steering Clear of salts fat and cholesterol. His dish takes its memorable flavor from a bouquet Garni of fruit and herbs. Despite the new emphasis on health and a wide open approach to combinations american chefs have not forsaken their heritage. Indeed an important part of the new cuisine is an appreciation of tradition. Carl s chop House in Detroit for instance has Given an appreciative new look to its meatloaf upgrading it by incorporating veal. Boston s Durgin Park has resisted All temptations to fiddle with its famous baked Beans still preparing them from scratch. Expensive and even bizarre ingredients Are no strangers to the ovens of these american chefs who follow freely in the National tradition of borrowing from each new culture in the melting pot. Every wave of immigration has brought with it new ways of preparing food said Michael Roberts of Trumps in los Angeles who combines sushi Nori with mushrooms whipping Cream and Leeks in his vegetable and Cheddar terrine. We have Learned better faster ways to. Prepare vegetables. And a variety of herbs and gourmet foods until recently found Only in expensive shops have found their Way into most supermarkets he said. Bookbinder s is represented in a taste of America by shrimp Artichoke and Ricotta cheese pie while Louie s backyard in key West flav shows up with something called Mango Lime filled chocolate macadamia cake Roll with chocolate sauce. Sarabeth s Kitchen in new York contributes the appropriately named chocolate cubbies and Lanzerotti s sports bar and Grill in Chicago offers that City s famous deep dish pizza. Baked stuffed Trout is served up by Scott s seafood bar and Grill in san Francisco along with baked Salmon fillet with sorrel sauce from Rosseline s other place in Seattle. Stripes Magazine apr 10,1986
