European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - November 23, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Rom Christmas wonderland by Carolyn j. Luxemburg associated press those who go to celebrate the Winter holidays in Rome will find a Happy combination of spiritual tradition and modern Day hedonism sure to Delight both the faithful and the shopping minded traveler. The Christmas season in this City at the heart of Christendom officially starts dec. 8, the feast of the immaculate Conception when the Pope blesses a statue of Mary near the Spanish Steps. The whole City then comes alive As store hours and Public transportation schedules Are extended so shoppers can search for that perfect gift seven Days a week until As late As 9 . Despite the Lack of Snow Rome becomes its own kind of Winter wonderland. The City s streets decked out in All their Christmas finery bask in the glow of Holiday lights. One can stroll along the elegant via Veneto under twinkling tree branches and Stop for a steaming cappuccino or a hot chocolate at a sidewalk cafe. In via Dei Condotti at the heart of the City s historic Center one can wander Down the red carpeted Street window shopping to the sound of Christmas carols in the exclusive boutiques. Nearby in the Piazza Dispagna those looking for More traditional Holiday sights will find a gaily decorated Christmas tree and a Beautiful example of the nativity scene or  the creche is the most important Symbol of Christmas in Italy and in addition to those on View in the City s major squares almost every roman family displays one at Home. Down the Street from the Piazza Dispagna in the Piazza Del Popolo there is an 24 stripes Magazine a a huge open air Market takes place at the Piazza Navona where a Brilliant array of Christmas goodies is sold. Annual exhibit of More than 100 nativity scenes from around the world made of everything from chocolate to shells to origami. The sacred meets the profane in Piazza Navona where from dec. 8 until Jan. 6 there is a huge open air Market. A Brilliant array of Christmas goodies is sold from exquisite handmade figurines for the nativity scene to Christmas stockings to toys and the customary sweets for children most notably the Long spiral shaped multicoloured lollipops known in italian As Quot spun  for romans the High Point of the Holiday is Christmas eve. Woe to the hungry tourist in search of an evening meal As almost every restaurant in Rome is closed after lunch on dec. 24, when everyone goes Home to help prepare for the traditional Quot Cen one Quot a the Christmas eve dinner a that romans eat at Home with their families. The Holiday meal is based on seafood and always consists of at least four courses. Traditional dishes include Batter Fried Broccoli and cauliflower the classic roman Fried artichokes pasta with tuna and Quot capstone Quot a dish made with eel All of which is topped off by fresh fruit and cheese. The meal lasts from 8 30 . Until around 11 30 ., when it is time to go to Church for Midnight mass. Be it for romans or for tourists nothing can be More moving than attending Midnight mass at the imposing St. Peter s Basilica in Vatican City. The ceremony is led by the Pope who reads his homily from under the magnificent Bernini designed canopy of the papal altar. Tickets to the mass Are available free of charge but must be requested by writing several weeks in Advance to the prefecture of the Quot Casa Pon Eficio Quot Vatican City. After Midnight mass families return Home to drink a Yumante and eat the special Christmas desserts panettone a kind of fruit cake and pan d Oro a Light sponge cake topped with powdered sugar. Afterwards gifts Are exchanged and the family sits Down to play various games Sias cards or Tombola an italian version c Bingo often until Sunrise. On Christmas Day those who can Roi themselves after a Long night of festivities will go to the morning mass or to see that Pope deliver his annual Christmas mess Urbiet Orbi Quot a latin for Quot to the City c Rome and to the world Quot a to the Crow in St. Peter s Square. The Holiday season continues through new year s until Jan. 6, after the night c the Befana a Witch like character said to it have arrived with the three Kings at the stable where Jesus was born. The Custon having presents beneath a Christmas tre it brought by Quot Babbo Natale Quot or father Christmas is relatively new and Many families prefer the older tradition of the visit of the Befana who comes Down the stovepipes Quot to leave Candy for Good cd Dren and lumps of charcoal for bad children in stockings hanging in the Kitchen