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Publication: European Stars and Stripes Thursday, July 21, 1988

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   European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - July 21, 1988, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Review crossing the Border can pay off Chow line by sgt. Ret Clement Lounder Bat k in the Days when Mexico offered an even dozen rum and cokes for a Dollar jumbo Perry and me used to spend inordinate amounts of time South of the Border blowing through heaping plates of Chicken mole fighting off the Turquoise dealers and Browing the clubs for just the right sized serving of Garban of. If Vii get my Drift and i am willing to bet you do. No in them Days no trip to the land of the walking Jukebox was Complete without a Stop at borderline eats an aptly titled Greasy spoon oper Uin that stood a Tortilla s toss from . Customs. The borderline was never much to look at it being .1 Long Low Bungalow Type building crouching Over a Formica counter edged in rotting Chrome. Throw in a quintet of red Vinyl stools held together with duct tape and a couple museum cases full of sponge cake and you Are basically getting the picture. We re talking Early Woolworth s with just a hint of Shell  restroom influence thrown in for Good measure. Thinking Back i do not quite remember Why we used to Stop there in the first place. Hell the food was As Greasy As the decor and the owner a surly pall mall putting Geezer named Jeeter did his Best to ignore anyone who made the mistake of pushing through the borderline s dented screen door and plopping Down inside. When not ignoring customers Jeeter spent most of his time patrolling the place for houseflies armed with a Metal swatter if you were Lucky with the Spatula if you were not. I got to remembering about Leeter s just the other week when jumbo and Joleen and Vera Johnson and me in search of a Little Cheek tightening Chow ducked across the French Border near Karlsruhe to a place called the Auberge a la pole d or the inn of the Golden frying pan. Not that the d or has anything much in common with borderline eats i hurry to mention right Here. It is however perched so seriously close to the Border that a Kitchen fire would attract Fet or Ehrand Pompier in fairly equal numbers. In preparation for the meal Joleen and Vera had spent the entire Day at or. Eddies their favorite Salon de Shellack and the two of them showed up sporting new coiffure plus these Black spandex outfits that showed off More Decolle Tage than a year s subscription to Cosmo. Jumbo who will never qualify As Well dressed until Armani starts working with tent cloth wore his usual Wash and Wear suit the Lime Green one Over a Floral arrangement shirt that even Tony Lama would have passed on. The restaurant in question is a quaint 12-table operation with lots of beams and chandeliers and impeccably set tables featuring More Silver than a Pawn shop. It being a warm evening though we grabbed a table on the d or Back Terrace ordered up some i tile Kir Royale s and then waded through the menu pointy fingers. Ratings a 25 b b a awesome eats. We re talking Paradise on a plate Here. & is & u very me dining. Crack service and memorable food and drink. Ill is a solid Chow. Good food of atmosphere and pleasant service. 2 a decent. About equal to a Ponderosa Steak House. G path butt. Crummy Chow so so service Semi ratty Interior. 28 stripes Magazine july 21, 1988  
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