European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - February 2, 1989, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Is photos by Ken George German towns it s not to be overlooked 77ie West Tower ant spire of Freiburg s Cathedral rises above the heart of the City. By Norm Zeigler travel outdoor writer in tourist guides it usually gets Only a fraction of the coverage devoted to other larger German cities Munich Niernberg Berlin Wiir Burg even Frankfurt. But what Freiburg in Breis Gau lacks in size it makes up for with the Richness of its history the Beauty of its Art and architecture and the open friendliness of its people. Nestled against the Evergreen Hills of the Black Forest Freiburg looks out across the Broad Valley of the upper Rhine in southwestern Germany. Thirty Miles South is Basel Switzerland and the convergence of the French German and Swiss Borders. Some travellers bypass Freiburg on their Way to Basel which boasts a larger population an International Airport and a world renowned pharmaceutical chemical Industry. Since it was founded 1120, Freiburg has frequently been an embattled City. Once walled and fortified against invading armies today it presents a More open visage. Only Small portions of the old fortifications remain including a Section of the old City Wall and two of its Gates. Two things make an immediate impression on visitors the absence of cars in the downtown area and the number of Young people one sees walking Riding bicycles relaxing on benches. The Auto free streets Are a result of a decision 10 years ago to turn the entire City Center into a pedestrian zone. 1 his did not take place without opposition from merchants who feared a drop in business but today the shops Are thriving. It is a pleasure to walk the Cobblestone byways without the danger noise and fumes of motor vehicles. Like some other German cities Gottinger marburg and Heidelberg among the Freiburg owes its Youthful atmosphere to a University. The Albert ludwigs University founded in 1457, accounts for 25,000 of the City s 187,000 residents and contributes to a dynamic intellectual Cultura tand social scene. Freiburg is an Ideal City for strolling. Because it is built on a Plain there Are no Hills to climb. In addition to the Cobblestone streets the City s trademark Stone mosaic sidewalks and Street Side Bachlein tiny sparkling booklets lend a quaint antique Quality to the old City that belies the fact most of it was reconstructed after world War ii. Freiburg is one City that has successfully combined the old with the new. Glass and steel contemporary structures Are interspersed among carefully restored half timbered and baroque buildings. Conspicuously absent is the ugly Concrete Blockhouse architecture found in some postwar construction areas. The heart of the City is the Miinster a magnificent gothic Cathedral built from 1200 to 1510. The Church with its 380-foot West Tower dominates the old City from the Munster Platz a Cobblestone Square with a year round open air Market. Even in this last third of the 20th Century the massive edifice of weathered red Sandstone is an architectural and engineering Marvel. There is no doubt in the mind of a contemporary visitor that it once inspired religious Awe in All who saw it. The spacious Munster Platz affords Good views of the Cathedral s exterior from three sides. The splendid Interior is open for viewing every Day and visitors with Good stamina can climb the 329 yes i counted them Steps to the upper Walkway on the West Tower. The close up View of the Tower s transformation 10 stripes Magazine february 2, 1989 from Square to Octagon and finally to the amazing filigree of the spire is Reward enough for the climb. It also affords a splendid View of the City. The Tower is entered through a narrow door at the Southwest Corner of the Nave. It is open to visitors seven Days a week in the summer and every Day except monday in the Winter. Summer hours Are 9 30 . To 6 . Winter hours Are 10 . To 4 . The Entrance fee 1 Mark is paid at the second level above the Entrance the first 204 Steps Are free. Bruno Thoma who mans the ticket and information Booth in the Tower says Between 80,000 and 100,000 people make the climb each year. Among the More splendid artworks inside the Cathedral Are sculptures of Christ and the 12 apostles As Well As the stained Glass windows some of which Date Back to the 14th Century. Throughout the City s Stormy history the Cathedral withstood the ravages of wars and local conflicts when other structures around it were badly damaged or destroyed. During the thirty years War from 1618 to 1648, the City was put under siege or turned into a Battle zone at least five times. In 1677, the original City Wall was razed by French troops of Louis Xiv but the Cathedral was not touched. During the War years of 1813-1814, russian austrian and prussian troops at various times plundered the City. World War i brought the first Aerial bombardment. But for Freiburg As for All of Europe world War ii brought disaster. On May 10,1940, the City was mistakenly bombed by German planes. On nov. 27, 1944, a massive Allied bombing attack destroyed More than 80 percent of the City including most of the old City. Miraculously the Cathedral remained standing and its